京都から舞鶴・天橋立へ
From Kyoto to Maizuru and Ama-no-Hashidate
OCR校訂済みの英文と日本語訳を、段落単位で並べて読めます。右欄では英語名の重複を抑え、日本語としての読みやすさを優先しています。
- 原資料
- pp. 383-386
- Status
- 16 translated
ROUTE 44. From Kyoto to Maizuru and Ama-no-Hashidate. [From Miyazu to Kinosaki.] Distance from Kyoto. Names of Stations. Miles. KYOTO (Nijo); Hanazono; Saga; Kameoka, 16; Yagi, 19 1/2; Sonobe, 21 1/2; Tonoda, 27 1/2; Goma, 34 1/2; Wachi, 41 1/2; Yamaga, 45 1/2; Ayabe Jct. (for Osaka), 51; Umesako, 58; MAIZURU, 62 1/2 (Shin-Maizuru, for dockyard). This is a 2 1/2 hrs. run through pretty country, for the first 11 miles of which (to Kameoka) see p. 341 under "Arashi-yama." Kameoka and Yagi lie in a fertile, mountain-girt plain. After Sonobe, the tunnels recommence (there are eleven on the way hence to Ayabe), as the line enters the green Tamba hills.
第44路程 京都から舞鶴・天橋立へ。［宮津から城崎へ。］京都から二条、花園、嵯峨、亀岡、八木、園部、殿田、胡麻、和知、山家、綾部接続点、梅迫を経て舞鶴へ至る鉄道は約2時間半。京都から亀岡までの最初の11マイルは嵐山の項を参照する。亀岡・八木は山に囲まれた肥沃な平野にあり、園部を過ぎると再びトンネルが始まり、線路は緑の丹波丘陵へ入る。
The highest point is reached at Goma, 753 ft. above sea-level, whence it is at first a steep gradient down towards the Sea of Japan along the valley of the Yura-gawa, a stream whose swift green waters and rocky bed, set in a frame of steep wooded hills, recall the Arashi-yama stretch. Many bridges are crossed, one of which is 1,416 ft. long. The stream is quitted at Ayabe; but the hills, some of them 2,000 ft. high, continue on to the coast. Maizuru (Inns, Furukane-ya, Seiwa-ro) was formerly the seat of a Daimyo. Numerous temples, both Buddhist and Shinto, lie on the hillside above the town, that of Keirin-ji being specially worth a visit, and for the sake of the view from it.
最高点は海抜753フィートの胡麻で、そこから由良川の谷に沿って日本海へ急に下る。速い緑の水、岩の川床、急な森林の丘は嵐山の景を思わせ、1,416フィートの橋を含む多くの橋を渡る。綾部で川を離れても、二千フィートに達する丘は海岸まで続く。舞鶴は旧大名の城下で、町上の斜面には仏教・神道の社寺が多く、桂林寺は眺めもよい。
Maizuru is alternatively pronounced Bu-kaku, Maizuru being the native Japanese, Bu-kaku the Chinese pronunciation of the characters used to write it, which mean "dancing crane." For this reason, a conventionalised crane forms the town's crest. The arsenal and docks at Shin-Maizuru (Inn, Sho-ei-kwan), founded in 1901, one and a half ri off round a headland to the E., are not open to the public. There are two ways of reaching Ama-no-Hashidate from Maizuru. One is by small steamer to Miyazu, running three times daily.
舞鶴は、同じ字を漢音で読んだブカクとも発音する。字義は「舞う鶴」で、図案化した鶴が町章になっている。1901年に築かれた東の新舞鶴の海軍工廠とドックは、岬を回って1里半の所にあるが、一般には公開されない。舞鶴から天橋立へは、一日三便の小汽船で宮津へ行く道がある。
The other (see Itinerary of next Route) is by an excellent road which runs along bold granite cliffs high above the sea, till, turning inland, it passes through a cutting from whose further end Ama-no-Hashidate is seen straight ahead, but not to advantage, and Miyazu to the l. Miyazu (Inns, Araki-ya, has a villa on the outskirts of the town, with bathing-stage and lovely view; Kansei, near pier) is a small town possessing considerable fisheries, and having occasional steam communication east and west. It derives a reflected glory from Ama-no-Hashidate, which lies about 1 ri off.
もう一つは、海上高くそびえる大胆な花崗岩の崖に沿う良道で、内陸へ曲がって切通しを抜ける。その先からは天橋立が正面、宮津が左に見えるが、天橋立の眺めとしてはよくない。宮津は漁業の盛んな小町で、東西への汽船便も時にあり、町外れに海水浴場と見晴らしのよい別荘を持つ荒木屋、桟橋近くの観世などの宿がある。約1里先の天橋立の名で間接に名高い。
The curious name Ama-no-Hashidate, in Chinese Ten-kyo, literally "the Bridge (or Ladder) of Heaven," is said to have been given to this place in allusion to the Ama-no-Uki-Hashi, or "Floating Bridge of Heaven," whereon the creator and creatress, Izanagi and Izanami, stood when they stirred up the brine of primeval chaos with their jewelled spear, the drops from which consolidated into the first island of the Japanese archipelago. Buddhist legend, too, has been busy about the place. Monju, the God of Wisdom, presides over the chief local temple. The following story, depicted in the accompanying illustration, is also told. About A.D. 700, a pious hermit from Kyoto, named Saion Zenji, struck by the
天橋立は漢音で天橋といい、文字どおり「天の橋、または梯子」を意味する。その名は、伊邪那岐・伊邪那美が天の浮橋に立ち、宝の矛で原始の混沌の塩水をかき回すと、滴が固まって日本最初の島になったという神話に結び付けられる。仏教伝説もこの地を彩り、主な寺では知恵の神・文殊を祀る。添図に描かれた次の話も伝わる。700年頃、京都の敬虔な隠者・西遠禅師は天橋立の美しさに心を打たれた。
loveliness of Ama-no-Hashidate, took up his abode on Nariai-san, raising there a little shrine to Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy, on a spot situated a short way above the Ippon-matsu, or "single pine-tree" mentioned below. There, facing the scene of beauty, he spent all his days chanting the Buddhist scriptures, much to the edification of the country folk who came to pray at the temple from time to time. But in this land of cold winters there came a season when the snow fell and fell, till it was piled up to a height of full twenty feet, and for many weeks all intercourse with the outer world was cut off. The hermit, looking out one morning, saw a deer that had perished of hunger and cold.
彼は成相山の、後述する一本松の少し上に観音の小祠を建てて住んだ。美景に向かい、時々寺へ祈りに来る村人を教化しながら、毎日仏典を唱えた。しかし冬の厳しいこの地で雪が降り続き、高さ20フィートにも積もって、外界との往来は何週も絶えた。ある朝、隠者は飢えと寒さで死んだ鹿を見つける。
He himself was cold and hungry, but he pitied the poor creature even though it was already dead, and he remembered likewise that even the laity were forbidden by the Merciful One to eat the flesh of beasts, who are conscious suffering creatures as much as man himself, how much more then a hermit specially devoted to a life of prayer and penance. Second thoughts, however, succeeded to these. The spirit, surely, of the divine commands should count above the letter. He could do more to help on the conversion of the world by tasting the deer's flesh and thus preserving his own life for the purpose of preaching to the country folk, than by lying down and dying, as he must otherwise do.
隠者自身も寒く空腹だったが、死んだ鹿を哀れに思った。慈悲深き仏は、苦しみを意識する生き物である獣の肉を、在家にさえ食べるなと命じているのだから、祈りと苦行の隠者ならなおさらである。しかし戒めの文字より精神を重んじるべきだとも考えた。肉を少し食べて命を保ち、村人へ教えを説く方が、横になって死ぬより世の救いに役立つと思った。
He therefore cut off a slice of the venison, cooked it and ate half, leaving the other half in the pot. Soon afterwards, when milder weather allowed of a track being made up from the village to the holy mountain, the villagers came fearing to find their hermit starved to death; but lo and behold! as they approached, his voice was heard ringing out clearly across the silvery scene in accents of prayer and praise. He told them what had happened. But when they looked into the pot for the other half of the slice of venison, lo! it was no venison, but a bit of wood covered on one side with gold foil.
そこで鹿肉を切り、煮て半分を食べ、残りを鍋に残した。やがて暖かくなり、村から聖山へ道を付けられると、隠者が餓死しているのではと心配した村人が来た。ところが近づくと、銀色の雪景色に祈りと賛美の声が明瞭に響く。話を聞いた村人が鍋を見ると、残り半分は鹿肉ではなく、片面に金箔を貼った木片だった。
Then they examined the sacred image of the goddess, and found that a piece of that very size and shape had been cut out of her loins; and when they put the piece in its place, it clave to the image, whose wound was thus healed in a moment. Then all knew that the seeming stag had been no stag, but the merciful goddess Kwannon in disguise, who had given of her own spiritual flesh to support the pious hermit in his dire distress. Ama-no-Hashidate has been famous throughout Japan from time immemorial, as one of the Sankei, or "Three Great Sights" of the empire. Described in prosaic topographical parlance, it is a narrow sandy spit, which nearly closes up a lateral arm of the gulf at whose head Miyazu is situated.
村人が観音像を調べると、ちょうど同じ大きさと形の部分が腰から切り取られていた。木片を戻すと直ちに像へ付き、傷は癒えた。あの鹿は鹿ではなく、窮地の隠者を救うため自らの霊的な肉を与えた慈悲の観音の化身だったと皆が悟った。天橋立は古来、日本三景の一つとして全国に名高い。地形的には、宮津のある湾の枝をほとんど閉じる細い砂州である。
Its length is a little under 28 cho, or not quite 2 m.; its breadth about 190 ft. A grove of pine-trees extends right along it. The arm or bay which it encloses, called Iwataki no Minato, measures 1 ri from E. to W., and over 1 ri from N. to S. The depth of the bay in the middle is 11 fathoms; but the entrance is too shallow to admit any but the smallest craft. Hence, though the waves may be in seething commotion on one side, on the other, but a few yards off, there is the perfect stillness of a mill-pond. At the southern tip, a break of some 200 yards has to be crossed by ferry. Till 1870, the pine-grove came down to the water's edge at this southernmost point.
長さは28町弱、2マイルに少し足りず、幅は約190フィートで、全長に松林が続く。囲まれる岩滝の港は東西1里、南北1里以上、中央の深さ11尋だが、入口は小舟しか通れないほど浅い。一方で波が荒れ狂っても、数ヤード隔てた反対側は水車池のように完全に静かである。南端には約200ヤードの切れ目があり、渡しで越える。1870年までここでは松林が水際まで続いていた。
In that year, when all authority was loosened by the impending downfall of feudalism, the common people, grasping at a paltry gain, began ruthlessly to cut down the trees and dammed up the natural outlet of the inner lake in order to turn part of it into rice-fields. Then, with the summer rains, a great flood came down from Oe-yama and swept all away, including a beautiful lotus-pond belonging to the Monju-do. Such are the bare facts relating to this celebrated spot, which is reached by jinrikisha from Miyazu, the jinrikisha being also taken across the Monju-do ferry to ride along the pine-grove. But Ama-no-Hashidate, to be appreciated, must be viewed from a height.
封建制の崩壊が迫って統制が緩むと、人々はわずかな利益を求めて松を無慈悲に伐り、内湖の自然な出口を堰き止め、一部を水田に変えようとした。夏の雨に大江山から大洪水が下り、文殊堂の美しい蓮池も含め全てを流した。宮津から人力車で天橋立へ行き、文殊堂の渡しでは車も渡して松林を走れるが、その価値を知るには高所から眺める必要がある。
For this purpose, the jinrikisha should be taken on to the village of Ejiri at its N. end, and the visitor should climb a few cho up Nariai-san to Ippon-matsu, a solitary pine-tree, whence the prospect is as lovely as it is unique. Lake Iwataki lies on the r. hand, Miyazu Bay like another lake on the l., with Ama-no-Hashidate dividing the two like a delicate green thread. The bay of Kunda peeps out beyond the hills, shutting in Miyazu with Yura-ga-take behind. Turning round, we have the Sea of Japan stretching away
人力車で北端の江尻まで行き、成相山を数町登って孤立する一本松へ出ると、独特で美しい展望を得る。右に岩滝湖、左にもう一つの湖のような宮津湾があり、天橋立は細い緑の糸のように両者を分ける。宮津を抱く丘の向こうには久田の湾がのぞき、背後には由良ヶ岳が立つ。振り返れば日本海が広がる。
to the horizon with the high islands of Oshima and Kojima, and in the extreme distance Haku-san and the mountains of Kaga. This expedition can easily be done in an afternoon. Another favourite point for viewing Ama-no-Hashidate is Myoken-do, on the O-uchi-toge (see below) 2 ri 20 cho N.W. of Miyazu. What is called Ura-mawari, that is the N. coast of the bold headland to the N.W. of Miyazu, is a favourite summer resort, on account of its fine rocks and good sea air. The bay of Ine is the principal local fishing ground, whales being taken there, as well as many smaller fish.
海の彼方には大島・小島が高く見え、遠くに白山と加賀の山々がある。この遠足は午後だけでできる。天橋立を見る別の好地点は、宮津の北西2里20町、大内峠の妙見堂である。宮津北西の大きな岬の北岸、浦回りは岩がよく海気もよいため夏の保養地となる。伊根湾はこの地方の主な漁場で、鯨のほか多くの魚が捕れる。
[The hot springs of Kinosaki (see Rte. 49) can be reached in one day by jinrikisha with two men over the O-uchi-toge and Hijiyama-toge, these hills having easy gradients, and pedestrians, on the other hand, being able to save a good deal by short cuts. Ko-Ama-no-Hashidate is a pretty, but smaller pine-clad stretch, near Kumihama (Inn, Furitani-ya), on the way.] An alternative way to Maizuru is to take rail from Kobe or Osaka via Kanzaki Jct., Takarazuka, Sanda, and Fukuchi-yama to Ayabe Jct., whence as above. The scenery resembles that on the line from Kyoto. For Takarazuka and neighbourhood, see p. 305. Fukuchi-yama (Funahashi Hotel) is a garrison town.
城崎温泉へは、大内峠・比治山峠を二人曳きの人力車で越えれば一日で行ける。峠は緩やかで、徒歩なら近道で大いに距離を省ける。久美浜近くには、より小さいが美しい松林の小天橋立がある。舞鶴へ別の道を取るなら、神戸または大阪から神崎接続点、宝塚、三田、福知山を経て綾部接続点へ鉄道で行ける。景観は京都線に似、福知山は守備隊の町である。
It contains two castle sites, one in the town, the other half-an-hour distant, both commanding good views. Travellers sometimes take boat hence down the river to Yura on the coast, a 4 hrs. trip through romantic scenery. To the N.W. of Fukuchi-yama rises Oe-yama, a mountain celebrated in legend on account of the ogres who were said to dwell there. The encounter between Shuten Doji, their chief, and the brave warriors Raiko and Tsuna at the Rashomon Gate of Kyoto is a favourite art motive. Three and a half ri by jinrikisha take one to Komori (fair inn), where sleep; thence 3 ri more on foot to the base of the mountain and 2 1/2 ri climb to the top, which affords a fine view over the Sea of Japan.
福知山には町中と半時間先に二つの城跡があり、どちらも眺めがよい。ここから由良の海岸まで川舟で下る者もいて、景勝地を通る四時間の旅となる。北西には、鬼が住んだ伝説で名高い大江山がそびえる。鬼の首領・酒呑童子と、頼光・綱が京都の羅生門で出会う話は美術の好題材である。人力車で3里半の小森に泊まり、そこから徒歩3里で山麓、さらに2里半登ると日本海を望む山頂に達する。
Thus made, the expedition occupies one long day. An alternative plan is to walk over the mountain from Komori to Miyazu, 11 ri.
この方法なら遠足は長い一日を要する。別案として、小森から宮津まで山を越えて徒歩11里で行くこともできる。