横浜近郊

ROUTE 2. Excursions from Yokohama. 1. Kamakura and the Daibutsu. 2. Enoshima. 3. Dzushi, Yokosuka, Uraga, and Misaki. 4. Sugita and Tomioka. 5. Kanazawa. [Mine.] 6. The Caves of Totsuka. 7. Oyama. 8. Takaozan. 9. Rapids of Sagami-gawa. 1. - Kamakura is reached from Yokohama in 50 min. by the Tokaido Railway, changing carriages (by some trains) at Ofuna Junction. This branch line continues on to Dzushi and Yokosuka, being altogether 21 1/2 miles in length.* Kamakura, once the populous capital of Eastern Japan, now a quiet sea-side village, is a favourite * It is proposed to connect Kamakura with Yokohama direct by electric tram.

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bathing and health resort of the Yokohama and Tokyo residents. The pure air and its situation facing south with hills on the north render it pleasant in all seasons. The Kaihin-in Hotel (Europ. style), situated under a pine-grove near that portion of the shore known as Yui-ga-hama, stands 1/4 hr. by jinrikisha from the station. An electric tramway connects Kamakura with Enoshima (see p. 104) 20 min. Kamakura was the seat of government in Eastern Japan from the end of the 12th to the middle of the 15th century. Yoritomo, who established the Shogunate in 1192, chose this place as his capital, and here was laid the foundation of the feudal system of government which prevailed up to the year 1868.

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The city of Kamakura, in the time of Yoritomo's immediate successors, extended all over the plain and into the recesses of the different yatsu, or dells, which branch off from it among the hills. Kamakura was the scene of innumerable contests between rival military factions, and of many bloody deeds. Here, on the seashore, were beheaded the Mongol ambassadors of Kublai Khan (Jap. Kop-pitsuretsu), who had imperiously sent to demand the submission of Japan to his sway. The city was repeatedly sacked and laid in ashes, and seems never to have fully recovered from the disasters of the year 1455.

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The neighbouring city of Odawara, which next rose into importance as the seat of the powerful Hojo family, attracted to itself large numbers of the inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin of which town was completed by the founding of Yedo in A.D. 1603. The chief sights of Kamakura are the Temple of Hachiman, the Daibutsu, or colossal bronze Buddha, and the great image of the goddess Kwannon. They all lie within a mile of the hotel. The Temple of Hachiman, the God of War, dating from the end of the 12th century, occupies a commanding position on a hill called Tsuru-ga-oka, and is reached by an avenue of pine-trees, which leads up the whole way from the seashore.

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Though both avenue and temple have suffered from the ravages of time, enough still remains to remind one of the ancient glories of the place. Three stone torii mark the approach to the temple, which stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps. Notice the magnificent icho tree nearly 20 ft. in circumference, said to be over a thousand years old. In A.D. 1218, the young Shogun Sanetomo, having received an additional title from the Mikado, was about to go in solemn procession to return thanks at the temple of Hachiman.

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He seems to have had some foreboding of evil; for, before leaving the palace, he composed a stanza which may be thus rendered: What time its lord, hence issuing, All tenantless this dwelling leaves, Be thou still mindful of the spring, Dear plum-tree standing by the eaves! The same morning, while he was being dressed, he pulled out a hair and gave it to his attendant, saying: "Keep this in memory of me." He had been advised to don armour under his robes, but failed to adopt the precaution. The ceremonial was protracted till a late hour. As Sanetomo descended the steps in the dark, a man sprang upon him from behind the tree, cut him down, and carried off his head.

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Though the assassin, who proved to be the high-priest of the temple and Sanetomo's own nephew, was soon discovered and despatched, the head was never found. So the hair which Sanetomo had given to his faithful retainer was buried in its stead. Before ascending the flight of steps, the minor shrines to the r. deserve passing notice. The nearer one, painted red and called Wakamiya, is dedicated to the Emperor Nintoku, son of Ojin, the God of War. The further one is called Shirahata Jinja, and is dedicated to Yoritomo. The style and structure are unusual, black and gold being the only colours employed, and iron being the material of the four main pillars. The interior holds a small wooden image of Yoritomo.

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A side path leads up hence to the main temple, which is enclosed in a square colonnade painted red. The temple, which was re-erected in 1828, after having been destroyed by fire, is in the Ryobu Shinto style, with red pillars, beams, and rafters, and is decorated with small painted carvings chiefly of birds

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and beasts. In the colonnade are several religious palanquins (mikoshi) used on the occasion of the semi-annual festivals (15th April and 15th September), a wooden image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei (see p. 85), and various relics, including Yoritomo's armour and his skull when a youth. (!) Immediately behind the temple of Hachiman is a small hill, called Shirahata-yama, whence Yoritomo is said to have often admired the prospect.

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The Daibutsu, or Great Buddha, stands alone among Japanese works of art. "a statue solid-set, And moulded in colossal calm." No other gives such an impression of majesty, or so truly symbolises the central idea of Buddhism, - the spiritual peace which comes of perfected knowledge and the subjugation of all passion. But to be fully appreciated, the Daibutsu must be visited many times. Tradition says that Yoritomo, when taking part in the dedication of the Daibutsu at Nara, conceived the desire of having a similar object of worship at his own capital, but died before he could put the plan into execution. The existing image, which represents Amida, apparently dates from A.D. 1252.

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It was originally enclosed in a building 50 yds. square, whose roof was supported on 63 massive wooden pillars. Many of the stone bases on which they rested are still in situ. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal waves, in 1369 and 1494, since which they have not been re-erected, and the image has ever since remained exposed to the elements. The Daibutsu is best seen from about half-way up the approach. Its dimensions are approximately as follows: - Height 49 ft. 7 in.; Circumference 97 ft. 2 in.; Length of face 8 ft. 5 in.; Width from ear to ear 17 ft. 9 in.; Round white boss on forehead 1 ft. 3 in.; Length of eye 3 ft. 11 in.; Length of eyebrow 4 ft. 2 in.; Length of ear 6 ft.

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6 in.; Length of nose 3 ft. 9 in.; Width of mouth 3 ft. 2 in.; Height of bump of wisdom 9 in.; Diameter of bump of wisdom 2 ft. 4 in.; Curls (of which there are 830): height 9 in., diameter 1 in.; Length from knee to knee 35 ft. 8 in.; Circumference of thumb 3 ft. The eyes are of pure gold, and the silver boss weighs 30 lbs. avoirdupois. The image is formed of sheets of bronze cast separately, brazed together, and finished off on the outside with the chisel. The hollow interior of the image contains a small shrine, and a ladder leads up into the head.

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The Temple of Kwannon, known as Hase no Kwannon, stands not far from the Daibutsu on an eminence commanding a beautiful view of the sea-shore towards Misaki, and over the Kamakura plain. The great image of the Goddess of Mercy, for which this temple is celebrated, stands behind folding-doors which a small fee to the attendant priest will suffice to open; but the figure can only be indistinctly seen by the dim light of a few candles. It is of brown lacquer gilded over, and its height is 30 ft. 5 1/2 in. The admirable bronze seated figure of Dainichi Nyorai on the l. was presented by the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (p. 86). Close to this temple is a bold cliff called Inamura-ga-saki.

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In 1333, when the city of Kamakura was attacked by the partisans of the Emperor Go-Daigo, part of the force led by Nitta Yoshisada advanced along the strand from the W. of this hill, but were unable to pass under the cliff owing to chevaux-de-frise being placed against it down to the water's edge, while their passage in boats was prevented by a long row of war-junks lying some 500 or 600 yards off the shore. Yoshisada therefore climbed the cliff, and after praying to the Sea-God, flung his sword into the water, whereupon the tide miraculously retreated,

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leaving a space a mile and a half wide at the foot of the cliff, along which he marched his army into Kamakura. Lovers of early sculpture and of Japanese historical and antiquarian lore, will find scattered over Kamakura many minor temples and other objects to arrest their attention. Amongst these, the following may be enumerated: - Ennoji, small and dilapidated, but containing the celebrated image of Emma-O, Regent of Hell called Arai-no-Emma, and carved by Unkei. Legend says that Unkei, having died, appeared in due course before this redoubtable deity, who thus accosted him: "Thou hast carved many images of me, but never a true one.

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Now that thou hast seen my face, return to earth and show me as I am." So Unkei, coming to life again, carved this image, which is, therefore, said to be Unkei Yomiji-gaeri no saku, that is "the work of Unkei redivivus." The image is only shown on application to the custodian. Other large images line the walls, one of Shozuka-no-Baba (see p. 47), also by Unkei, being specially powerful. Kenchoji is situated in beautiful but now mostly deserted grounds, amidst magnificent trees, of which the rugged byakushin (Juniperus chinensis) is the most prominent species, and a favourite material with the carvers of Buddhist images. The gate is a huge structure.

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The main temple contains a large image of Jizo, and four hundred small gilt ones of the same divinity carved by Eshin. A very popular little shrine was erected in 1890 on Shojoken, the hill behind Kenchoji, and attracts crowds of pilgrims on the 17th day of the month. The shrine is dedicated to a goblin called Hanzobo, to whom enormous quantities of small paper flags are offered up. These line both sides of the pathway that leads up the hill for a distance of 5 cho. A tea-house near the shrine commands a splendid view of Fuji and the sea. The Oku-no-in at the very top overlooks a maze of small hills and valleys in the direction of Yokohama.

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It makes a pleasant walk to follow the ridge of these hills, returning by Kakuonji, Kamakura-no-Miya, and Yoritomo's Tomb; 2 1/2 to 3 hrs. The ancient Temple of Kakuonji contains images of the Ju-ni-ten, nearly life-size, and very large ones of Yakushi Nyorai, Nikko Bosatsu, and Gwakko Bosatsu, all attributed to the chisel of Unkei. The Tomb of Yoritomo is a modest monument covered with creepers. The Kamakura-no-Miya was erected in 1869 in honour of a son of the Emperor Go-Daigo, called Oto-no-Miya, who having failed in his attempt to overthrow the feudal government, was captured, confined in a cave, and finally assassinated in A.D. 1335. The temple, which is in "Pure Shinto" style (see p.

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38), stands directly in front of the cave. Enkakuji possesses the largest bell in Kamakura. This bell, dating from A.D. 1201, is 6 in. thick, 4 ft. 7 in. in diameter, and about 8 ft. high. Komyoji, Eishoji, and Ju-roku-ido, or the Sixteen Pools, in which, according to an apocryphal tradition, Kobo Daishi performed his ablutions, are also noted. 2. - Enoshima. This picturesque spot, though called an island, is sometimes a peninsula for years at a time, according as tides and currents heap up or wash away a neck of sand connecting it with the mainland.

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The most direct approach from Yokohama is by the Tokaido Railway to Fujisawa station (50 min.), whence electric tram to the vill. of Katase in 10 min., and on foot across the sand in 15 min. more. It can also be reached from Kamakura in 20 min. by electric tram along a stretch of shore called

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Shichi-ri-ga-hama* to Katase, as above. Half-way is the Yuki-ai-gawa, which, though a mere rill, deserves mention on account of the following incident: - When Nichiren was miraculously delivered from the hands of the executioner at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe, a messenger was at once despatched to Kamakura to ask for further orders, while at the same moment a reprieve was sent from the palace of the Regent Tokiyori. The two messengers happened to meet at this stream, whence the name of Yuki-ai-gawa, which means "the River of Meeting." A stone now marks the spot. Enoshima, being a popular holiday resort, is full of excellent inns.

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The best are the Iwamoto-in and Ebisu-ya in the vill., and the Kinki-ro higher up. There is fair sea-bathing. The shops of Enoshima are full of shells, coral, and marine curiosities generally, many of which are brought for sale from other parts of the coast. The beautiful glass-rope sponge (Hyalonema sieboldi), called hosugai by the Japanese, is said to be gathered from a reef deep below the surface of the sea not far from the island of Oshima, whose smoking summit is visible to the south on a clear day. From the earliest ages the island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist Goddess of Luck.

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Before the existence of Enoshima, so says the ancient legend, the site of the present cave was the abode of a dragon, which used to devour the children of the village of Koshigoe. In the 6th century, on the occasion of a violent earthquake, the goddess Benten appeared in the clouds over the spot inhabited by that monster; and the island of Enoshima suddenly emerging from the waters, she descended to it, married the dragon, and put an end to his ravages. The natives believe that a subterranean passage connects the cave with Fuji. This cult has now been exchanged for that of three Shinto goddesses, to whom several of the temples have been re-dedicated.

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But the spot considered most sacred of all is the large Cave on the far side of the island. It is 124 yds. in depth, the height at the entrance being at least 30 ft., but diminishing gradually towards the interior. The rocks near the cave are frequented by divers, who for a few cents bring up shell-fish from the deep, which, however, they may be suspected of having previously concealed about their persons. Opposite the tram station at Katase stands the temple of Ryukoji, founded after Nichiren's death by his disciples, and built on the spot where his execution was to have taken place. It possesses some fine wood-carvings.

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The midway station of Kugenuma (Inn, Asahi-kwan), on the Enoshima-Fujisawa electric tram line, is so called from a small bathing resort about 1/2 m. distant. 3. - Dzushi, Yokosuka, Uraga, and Misaki. Yokosuka is the terminus of the Ofuna branch line, and is reached from Yokohama in 1 1/4 hr. The little line of railway passes through characteristically Japanese scenery, - wooded hills rising up abruptly from valleys laid out in rice-fields, with here and there a cottage or a tiny shrine half-hidden in a rustic bower.

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Kamakura is passed; also Dzushi (Inn, Yoshin-tei), the station for a popular sea-side resort and for another at Hayama (Inn, Kagi-ya) 1 1/2 m. distant, where the Crown Prince and members of the Japanese nobility, have villas, and enjoy sea-bathing and lovely views of Fuji. Dzushi is favoured by the foreign residents of Yokohama and Tokyo. It is also the station for the picturesque temple of Jimmuji, 1 1/2 m., whose foundation dates from the twelfth century. The hill just above the temple affords a splendid panorama. The train darts in and

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out of short tunnels under some of these hills, and passes the Torpedo Station of Taura, before reaching the sea-shore at Yokosuka. Yokosuka (Inn, Mitomi-ya; Foreign restt., Kaiyo-ken, near the wharf), which but forty years ago was a poor village, has rapidly risen into importance, on account of the Government Dockyard established there. Visitors are not admitted, unless furnished with an introduction from the naval authorities. The town is prettily situated on a land-locked bay; but the surrounding wooded heights have been cut away vertically to afford more flat space for the rapidly growing streets.

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Its chief interest for Anglo-Saxons lies in the fact that here lived and died Will Adams, the first Englishman that ever landed on the shores of Japan. Will Adams, a native of Gillingham in Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch ships which reached the southern coast of Japan on the 19th April, A.D. 1600. Brought as a prisoner into the presence of Ieyasu, Adams soon won the favour of that astute ruler, who employed him both as a shipbuilder and as a kind of diplomatic agent when other English and Dutch traders began to arrive. Adams's constantly reiterated desire to behold his native land again and the wife and children whom he had left behind, was to the last frustrated by adverse circumstances.

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He consoled himself by taking another wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived until his death in 1620 at Hemi, a suburb of Yokosuka, where the railway station now stands. His grave and that of his Japanese wife are situated on the top of a hill, 1/2 hr. walk from the railway station. The Japanese call the place Anjin-zuka, from anjin which means "pilot," that having been the appellation by which Adams was commonly known. The tombs are of stone, in the ordinary Japanese style. Will Adams's monument is without an inscription, while that of his wife bears the posthumous title which every Buddhist receives from the priest of the parish temple.

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Not only is the situation (restored by public subscription in 1909) of the graves picturesque, but the eminence on which they stand affords a lovely view of land and sea. A rest-house for visitors stands close by. Another vantage-point just outside the opposite or E. end of Yokosuka, is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on which stands a temple of the Nichiren sect. The distance from Yokosuka to Uraga is 1 ri 32 cho (4 1/2 m.) along an excellent road. A little more than half-way lies the hamlet of Otsu, where there is an inn, good of its kind, but apt to be noisy, with a fine beach for bathing.

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Uraga (Inn, Suzuki-ya) is built on both sides of a very narrow fiord-like harbour; and the two divisions thus formed are called respectively Higashi-Uraga and Nishi-Uraga, i.e., East and West Uraga. Two large dry docks were opened here in 1899. In former times all junks entering the Bay of Yedo were detained at Uraga for inspection, and it was here that Commodore Perry anchored on the 8th July, 1853, bearing with him the letter of President Fillmore to the Shogun, the result of which was to open Japan to foreign intercourse. The spot (Kuri-ga-hama) where he landed is marked by a stone monument erected in 1901.

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It is worth while devoting 1/2 hr. to the climb up Atago-yama, a hill at the back of Nishi-Uraga, commanding a fine view of the town and harbour. Misaki (Inn, Aoyagi) lies at the S. tip of the peninsula of Sagami, 4 ri 3 cho (10 m.) from Uraga by jinrikisha. At Ko-Ajiro, on a small bay 1 ri to the N., stands the Marine Biological Laboratory (Misaki Rinkai Jikken-jo), connected with the Science College of the Imperial University of Tokyo. The marine fauna of this district being exceptionally rich in rare forms, dredging has produced highly interesting results. A lighthouse stands on the island of Jo-ga-shima, 1 m. from the mainland, with which it is connected by ferry.

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There is a good road with splendid views from Kamakura and Dzushi by Hayama and along the coast, 7 ri (17 m.). 4. - Sugita and Tomioka. It is a pleasant walk or jinrikisha ride of about 2 ri from Yokohama to Sugita (Inns, Azuma-ya and others) famous for its plum-blossoms; and 1 ri further on to Tomioka (Inn, Kimpa-ro), a favourite run for Yokohama yachtsmen, also affording good sea-bathing. Tomioka may also be easily reached by boat from the Cutting at the back of the Settlement in about 40 min., the distance from the Settlement to the point where the boat is taken being approximately 1 ri. 5. - Kanazawa. [Mine.] Jinrikishas may be taken the whole way, two men being required.

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The total distance is 4 ri 30 cho (11 1/3 m.), the road being flat for the first 6 miles as far as the hamlet of Seki, and after that, hilly. - Kanazawa may also be reached by the coast road via Tomioka (see above) on foot in 3 hrs., or most easily of all by the jinrikisha road across the neck of the peninsula from Kamakura (6 m.) or Dzushi (4 m.). [At the hamlet of Tanaka, 10 cho beyond Seki, a road practicable for jinrikishas, turns off r. to the Buddhist temple of Enkaiji at Mine, much frequented by Japanese patients for the application of the moxa. The distance from Tanaka to Mine is 28 cho, or nearly 2 m.]

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On reaching the crest of the ridge, the beauty which has led the foreign residents to bestow on this neighbourhood the name of the Plains of Heaven, suddenly reveals itself. A scene of perfect loveliness may be enjoyed from a spot called Nokendo, where stands a pine-tree known as the Fudesute-matsu, because a Japanese artist of olden times here flung away his pencil in despair. At the spectator's feet is a wide, cultivated, valley bordered by pine-clad hills, and opening out to the shores of an inlet, whose still waters are partly hemmed in by small peninsulas and islands, with to the l. the promontory of Kwannon-saki, and on the opposite side of Tokyo Bay the long crest of Nokogiri-yama.

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The most conspicuous of the islands are Natsushima (Webster Island), with Sarushima (Perry Island) beyond it, and Eboshi-jima which is much smaller and recognisable by its triangular shape. But a mere catalogue of names can avail nothing towards conveying an idea of the scene which might be the original that inspired the Japanese landscape-painter's art. Kanazawa (Inns, Chiyo-moto, Azuma-ya), on the shores of the Mutsura Inlet, is chiefly noted for its Hakkei, - a characteristically Japanese view from a small height just outside the village.

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Close to the ferry, at the foot of a wooded hill called Nojima-yama (8 cho from Kanazawa), is a celebrated peony garden, which attracts many visitors during the season of flowering. Some of the plants are said to be over 300 years old. The whole neighbourhood affords delightful walks, as paths leading to the top of every hill command exquisite views. 6. - The Caves of Totsuka. (Taya no Ana.) Though known to foreigners as the Caves of Totsuka, these caves, or rather galleries cut in the soft sandstone, are really nearer to Ofuna, the next station beyond Totsuka on the Tokaido Railway, 40 min. run from Yokohama, or 10

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min. from Kamakura. They lie at a distance of 17 cho (a little over 1 m.) from Ofuna station, but almost 1 1/2 ri from Totsuka station. Whichever station one decides to alight at, the trip on thence can be done by jinrikisha. The best time to choose is the spring, as the cherry-trees in the grounds will then be seen to advantage. Candles are provided at the temple of Josenji near the entrance, also cloaks to ward off any wet that may drip from the walls; and a local guide will point out the Buddhist carvings with which the walls and ceilings are adorned. These caves, with their carvings, are a monument of modern Buddhist piety.

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Existing in embryo since the Middle Ages (tradition asserts them to have been resorted to for the concealment both of troops and of treasure in the 14th century), they have only been excavated to their present extent during the last sixty years. In the year 1851, a man called Sato Shichizaemon, whose family had for generations been rich peasants in this locality, was urged in a dream to devote his life to making these caves into an imperishable shrine to various Buddhist divinities, and especially to the goddess Benten. This he accordingly did until his death in 1892, at the age of 81, employing his own patrimony for the enterprise and local talent for the carvings.

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Among the subjects pourtrayed, may be distinguished angels, dragons, lions, birds both natural and mythical, the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac, the Eighteen Rakan, the Thirty-Three Kwannon of the district of Chichibu, and other Buddhas innumerable. To explore the caves properly takes about 1 hr. 7. - Oyama. This mountain, 4,100 ft. high, is most easily reached from Yokohama by alighting at Hiratsuka station on the Tokaido Railway, a run of a little over 1 hr.; thence by jinrikisha to the vill. of Koyasu on the lower slope, whence about 1/2 m. on to the vill. of Oyama, the total distance from Hiratsuka to Oyama being 4 1/2 ri (11 m.).

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It is a favourite goal of pilgrims, who continue to be attracted to its shrine, although the old Buddhist objects of worship have here, as in so many other parts of the country, been replaced by comparatively obscure Shinto deities. Indeed, according to Sir Ernest Satow it is uncertain who these gods are; but the best authority asserts that the chief deity is Iwanaga-hime, sister to the goddess of Mount Fuji. The people of the neighbouring country-side often call the mountain by the name of Sekison-san. Yet another name is Afuri-yama. Koyasu (Inn, Kami-ya) is a long street of steps, which at its upper end changes its name to Oyama (Inns, Koma-ya, Izu-ya).

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Such of the inhabitants as do not keep houses of entertainment for the pilgrims, busy themselves with the manufacture of rosaries, toys, and domestic utensils. Festivals are held on April 21-30, July 28, Aug. 17, and Sept. 8-10. The ascent and descent of the mountain take from 4 1/2 to 5 hrs., but are more fatiguing than most climbs of the same length, owing to the multitude of steps. A little way beyond the inns, a stream gushes out of the mouth of a bronze dragon placed in a rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and falls into a pool, in which it is considered highly meritorious to bathe. Ten cho further up, the entrance to the sacred domain is indicated by a torii perched on the top of a flight of steps.

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Here the traveller has to choose between the Otokozaka (man's ascent), and Onnazaka (woman's ascent), - the former a continuous series of steep flights of high steps, the latter longer but less arduous. Both paths unite higher up. Numbers of small shrines, sacred stones, rest-houses, etc., are passed, and views are obtained from time to time of the plains of Sagami and Musashi, with the river Banyu, capes Misaki and Sunosaki at the entrance of Tokyo

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Bay, the sea, and the mountains of Kazusa. The main temple stands 28 cho below the summit, where there is another shrine, which so covers all of the small available standing room that only on one side can any view be obtained. It includes Fuji, the wooded top of Tanzawa, the mountains of Nikko, Enoshima, etc. (Tanzawa is a small range situated close to Oyama on the west. It includes Sobutsu-yama, Tanzawa proper, and Bodai-yama, but offers little interest.) 8. - Takao-zan. A description of this noted place will be found on p. 141. Travellers from Yokohama take the Higashi Kanagawa-Hachioji-Kofu line to Asakawa, a run of about 2 hrs.

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Distance from Yokohama: YOKOHAMA; 3 Higashi Kanagawa Jct. (For Hachioji and the Central Rly.); 7 1/2 Kozukue; 11 1/2 Nakayama (For Kawawa); 14 Haramachida; 17 3/4 Fuchinobe; 21 Hashimoto (Change for Kofu); 22 1/2 Aihara; 26 1/4 HACHIOJI Jct.; 30 1/2 Asakawa. 9. - Rapids of the Sagami-gawa. A pleasant trip, combining varied and picturesque scenery with a dash of excitement, may be made by descending the Sagami-gawa (called Katsura-gawa higher up, and Banyu-gawa lower down) from Yose on the Central Railway (see Rte. 30) to Atsugi, near Hiratsuka on the Tokaido Railway. The journey can be done in one day by leaving Higashi-Kanagawa station (see schedule above) at 8 a.m. and getting to Yose at 11 a.m.

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From Yose (poor inn) to the river is 15 min. walk. The boat takes about 5 hrs. for the descent to Atsugi, whence basha to Hiratsuka station in a little over 1 hr. The boats hold from 8 to 10 persons and cost (in 1912) 13 yen. The first portion of the journey is very pretty, the river running between precipitous rocky bluffs covered with a variety of trees. The azalea is conspicuous in spring and the maple in autumn. Some distance down, the pumping station of the works which supply Yokohama with water is passed on the l. bank. The best part ends near the hamlet of Oi, 2 1/2 hrs. from Yose, before the river emerges into the plain.

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