東京

ROUTE 4. Tokyo. Tokyo, formerly Yedo. Hotels. - Imperial (Teikoku) Hotel, centrally situated; Tokyo Hotel, on Atago-yama; Seiyoken Hotel; Central Hotel, at Tsukiji. Japanese Inns. - Taizan-kwan and Tori-kwan, near the Imperial Hotel. Restaurants. - (Europ. food) Shimbashi Terminus (upstairs); Seiyo-ken, in Ueno Park; Restaurant Francais near Shimbashi, and many others, especially in and near Ginza. - (Japanese food) Yaozen, at San-ya, Asakusa; Tokiwa-ya, in Hama-cho. Tea-houses (for entertainments in Japanese style). - Koyo-kwan (Maple Club), in Shiba Park (visitors are shown over for a trifling fee); Nakamura-ro, at Ryogoku; Umega-wa-ro, in Ueno Park.

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Club. - The Tokyo Club, at Torano-mon; with mixed foreign and Japanese membership. Welcome Society. - Headquarters in the Tokyo Chamber of Commerce Building, Kojimachi-ku, Yaesu-cho. It obtains introductions, permits, and other facilities for travellers. Foreign Embassies. - Great Britain, 1, Koji-machi Go-bancho; United States, 1, Akasaka Enoki-zaka; France, 1, Iida-machi Itchome; Germany, 14, Nagata-cho; Russia, 1, Ura-Kasumi-ga-seki. General Post Office & Central Telegraph Office. - At Yedo-bashi. Sub-offices in various districts of the city. Parks. - Shiba, Ueno, Asakusa, and Hibiya.

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Museums. - The Hakubutsu-kwan, in Ueno Park; Commercial Museum and Mineral Museum (Sho-hin Chinretsu-kwan), near Shimbashi terminus; Museum of Arms (Yushu-kwan), in the grounds of the Shokonsha temple at Kudan. Mr. Okura's private collection, 3, Akasaka, Aoi-cho, is open to visitors on Mondays and Thursdays. Public Libraries. - The Tosho-kwan, in Ueno Park; the Hibiya Tosho-kwan, in Hibiya Park. Churches. - Church of England, in Shiba, Sakae-cho; American Episcopal, Union Church (Protestant), Roman Catholic, - all in Tsukiji; German Evangelical, 28, Kojimachi, Naka-roku-bancho. Theatres. - Teikoku-za (modern style), at Maru-no-uchi; Yuraku-za, near Imperial Hotel; Kabuki-za, in Kobiki-cho; Meiji-za, in Hama-cho.

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Wrestling. - At Eko-in in Honjo, twice yearly for ten days in winter and spring. Also at other times and places not fixed. Bazaars. - Bazaars (Kwankoba) at Shimbashi bridge, in Shiba Park,

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and in different parts of the city. Fixed prices. Nowhere can one more easily pick up the thousand and one little articles that are in daily use among the people. A City and Suburban Railway runs from Gofuku-bashi (Central Station) via Shinagawa, and skirts the W. and N. suburbs to Ueno, with a branch from Ikebukuro to Akabane on the Northern Railway (see Route 69). Travellers from Yokohama for Nikko etc. can connect by changing at Shinagawa and Akabane. Distance from Gofuku-bashi. Names of Stations. Remarks. GOFUKU-BASHI. 3/4 m. Yuraku-cho. 1 1/4 Karasumori. 2 Hamamatsu-cho. 3 Tamachi. 4 1/2 Shinagawa Jct. (Change for Yokohama, etc.) 5 1/2 Osaki. 6 Gotanda. 6 3/4 Meguro. See Rte. 5. 7 3/4 Ebisu. 8 1/2 Shibuya.

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9 3/4 Harajuku. 10 1/2 Yoyogi. 11 Shinjuku Jct. (Change for Hachioji and Kofu.) 12 1/2 Takadano-baba. 13 Mejiro. 14 Ikebukuro Jct. (Change for Akabane.) 15 Otsuka. 15 1/2 Sugamo. 16 1/4 Komagome. 17 1/4 Tabata. (Change for Northern Ry. Change for East Coast Ry.) 18 Nippori. 19 1/2 UENO. Another Suburban Railway runs partly through the old castle moat, with chief stations at Mansei-bashi, Iida-machi, Ushigome, Yotsuya, Shinano-machi, Shinjuku, and Nakano. Conveyances. - Jinrikishas are in universal use. Electric trams run along the principal thoroughfares and to the suburbs. Carriages can be hired at Shimbashi Station and through the hotels; also taxi-cabs at Shimbashi and Ueno.

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Small Steamers run to various points on Tokyo Bay and up the big rivers. The following are some of the chief shops at which articles likely to interest the tourist are sold: - Porcelain. - Mikawa-ya, at Owari-cho, Itchome; Daizen, at Nihom-bashi, Kakuya-cho, No. 5; Sangin, near Shimbashi Bridge. Lacquer. - Hayashi Kuhei, at Nihom-bashi, Muromachi; Kuroe-ya, at Tori Itchome; Daizen, at Nihom-bashi, Kakuya-cho; Daisho, at Nihom-bashi, Aomono-cho; Nakamura, at Owari-cho, Nichome. Bronze. - C. Suzuki, in Tsukiji; Maruki, at Nihom-bashi, Sukiya-cho; Miyao, at Nihom-bashi; Kaga-ya, at Asakusa, Kuramae-dori. Swords and Armour. - Iida, at Kanda, Hatago-cho, Itchome; Nakamura at Owari-cho, Nichome.

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Silver Ware. - Miyamoto Sho, at Kyobashi, Yazaemon-cho; Ueda, at Yuraku-cho; Seishu-kwan, at Kyobashi, Ginza, Sanchome. Cloisonne. - Namikawa, at Nihom-bashi, Shin-emon-cho; Ando, at Kyobashi, Moto-Sukiya-cho. Ivory. - Toyama, at Ginza, Nichome; Murata, Kato Toyoshichi, both at Nihom-bashi; Maruki, at Nihom-bashi, Himono-cho. Old Silks and Embroideries. - Hattori, in Naka-dori; Nishimura, near Imperial Hotel; Shimizu, at Kyobashi, Inaba-cho, No. 1; Iwamoto, Domei, both in Naka-dori; Morita, at Nihom-bashi, Sanai-cho.

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Silk Mercers. - Mitsukoshi, in Suruga-cho; Daimaru, at Hatago-cho; Shiroki-ya, at Tori, Itchome; Mizushima (chiefly modern embroideries in European style), at Hon-cho, Itchome, - all in the Nihom-bashi district; Takashima-ya, at Nishi Konya-cho. Culture Pearls. - Mikimoto, at Ginza, Shi-chome. Coloured Prints. - Kobayashi, at Asakusa, Komakata; Hattori, in Naka-dori; Suwa, at Kyobashi,

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Tatami-cho; Murata Kimbei, in Naka-dori; Shimbi-Sho-in (for art albums), at Kyobashi, Shin-sakanamachi, No. 13. Paper and Fans. - Haibara, at Nihom-bashi, Tori, Itchome. Photographs. - Ogawa, at Kyobashi, Hiyoshi-cho; Maruki, at Shiba, Shin-sakurada-cho, No. 18 (for portraits); Okamoto, at Ginza, San-chome (for views). Booksellers. - Maruzen, at Nihom-bashi, Tori, San-chome; Methodist Publishing House, in Ginza. Curios in General. - Nakamura, at Owari-cho, Ni-chome; Daizen, in Naka-dori; Joko, at Sanjikken-bori, Ni-chome; Tamon-ten, Shin-emon-cho, Naka-dori, No. 15; Y. Ito, Kyobashi-ku, Izumo-cho, No. 9. Also many other shops in Naka-dori.

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Newspapers (English). - "Japan Advertiser"; "Japan Times," daily, the latter edited by Japanese; "The Far East," weekly. Chief Popular Festivals. Date. Name of Festival. Where Held. Monthly, 5th Suitengu Kakigara-cho. Monthly, 10th (October, special) Kompira Tora-no-mon. Monthly, 17-18th Kwannon Asakusa. Monthly, 21st (March, special) Daishi Kawasaki. Monthly, 24th (September, special) Atago Jinja Atago-shita. First Day of the Hare (Hatsu-u) Myokendo Yanagi-shima. April 17th Toshogu Shiba and Ueno Parks. April 18th Sanja Matsuri Asakusa. May and November 6-8th Shokonsha Kudan. June 3rd Kumano Jinja Iigura and Aoyama. June 3-14th Tenno Matsuri Shinagawa, Yotsuya, Asakusa, Senju.

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Mid-July* Kawa-biraki ("Opening of the River") Ryogoku. July 7-14th Tenno Matsuri Nakabashi. July 9-10th Shi-man Roku-sen Nichi Asakusa Kwannon. July 15th Sanno Nagata-cho. July 15th Hikawa Jinja Akasaka. September 11-20th Shimmei Matsuri Shiba. September 15th Kanda Myojin Kanda. October 12-13th O Eshiki (Anniversary of Nichiren's death) Ikegami and Hori-no-uchi. November 22-28th O Ko Mairi Monzeki temple at Asakusa. November (on Days of the Cock, Tori no hi) Tori no Machi Asakusa. Temples having monthly festivals are most crowded in January, May, and September. Further, the 1st, 15th, and 28th of each month are more or less specially observed. * Sometimes delayed by rainy weather to early August.

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Akin to the popular festivals (matsuri or ennichi) are the following fairs (ichi) held at the close of the year for the citizens to make seasonable purchases: - Date. Name of Fair. Where Held. December 13th Tenno Sama Shinagawa. December 15th Hachiman Fukagawa. December 17-18th Kwannon Asakusa. December 20-21st Kanda Myojin Kanda. December 22-23rd Shimmei Shiba. December 23-24th Atago Atago-shita. December 25th Tenjin Hirakawa. December 27th-28th Fudo Yagen-bori. Jujutsu practice is to be seen at the Kodo-kwan, Koishikawa, Shimo-Tomizaka-cho, No. 18. The rite of Walking over Fire (Hi-watari) may be witnessed at the temple of Ontake at Kudan, Imagawa-koji, on the 9th April and 17th September.

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The less interesting Ordeal by Boiling Water (Kuga-dachi) takes place on the previous day. (Details in Things Japanese, article Fire-walking). Flowers. Plum-blossoms (Ume). - Kamata, a station on the railway to Yokohama; Kameido Ume-yashiki; Kinegawa Ume-yashiki, close to Mukojima, January to beginning of March. Cherry-blossoms (Sakura). - Ueno, Mukojima, and Shiba, early in April; Koganei, middle of April. For the double cherry-blossoms (yae-zakura) Kokoku-mura, on the banks of the Arakawa beyond Mukojima (steam launch to Senju or rail from Ueno to Nishi-arai), last week of April.

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Peonies (Botan). - Florists' gardens at Somei, end of April; Senkwa-en and Shokwa-en in Azabu; Kamata, near station of same name, beginning of May, Yotsume (in Honjo), middle of May. Wistarias (Fuji). - Kameido and Kasukabe, first week in May. Azaleas (Tsutsuji). - Florists' gardens at Okubo-mura, early in May. Irises (Hana-shobu). - Horikiri; the extensive gardens near Kamata station; Yoshino-en, at Yotsuki in Honjo, first half of June. Convolvuli (Asagao). - Florists' gardens at Iriya in Shitaya; end of July and beginning of August. Lotus-flowers (Hasu). - Lake Shinobazu at Ueno, and the Palace moats, beginning of August. These flowers can only be seen to perfection during the morning hours.

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Chrysanthemums (Kiku). - Dangozaka and Asakusa, beginning of November. Maples (Momiji). - Kai-anji at Shinagawa, beginning of November; Oji, middle of November. Principal Places to visit. - Shiba and Ueno Parks (tombs of the Tokugawa Shoguns in both, the former more easily accessible). Temple of Kwannon at Asakusa and neighbouring Park, Hakubutsukwan Museum at Ueno, Atago Tower for view of the city. Drive along the Ginza and round the inner moat (Naka-bori). Time to Chief Points by jinrikisha with two coolies: From Shimbashi terminus to: - Imperial Hotel 5 min. Tokyo Club 10 min. British Embassy 18 min. American Embassy 10 min. Shiba Park 10 min. Ueno Park 35 min. Asakusa (Kwannon) 40 min.

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History.— The city is of comparatively modern origin. Down to the middle ages, most of the ground which it covers was washed by the sea or occupied by lagoons. On the sea-shore stood, in the 15th century, the fishing hamlet of Ye-do ("estuary gate"), _near which a certain warrior, named Ota Dokwan, built himself a fortress in the year 1456. The advantages of the position from a military point of view were discerned by Hideyoshi, who therefore caused his general, Iyeyasu, to take possession of the castle, and when Ieyasu himself became Shogun in 1603, he made Yedo his capital.

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From that time forward Japan thus practically had two capitals, — Kyoto in the west, where the Mikado dwelt in stately seclusion, and Yedo in the east, whence the Shogun held sway over the whole land. The latter's feudal retainers, — the Daimyos, or territorial nobility were obliged to reside in Yedo for half of each year. On the fall of the Shogunate in 1868, the Mikado came and took up his abode in Yedo, and soon after the name of the city was changed to Tokyo or Tokei, these being alternative methods of pronouncing the Chinese characters 東京 with which the name is written.

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The meaning of the term Tokyo is " Eastern Capital." It was given in contradistinction to Saikyo, or " Western Capital," the name by which Kyoto was re-christened. The Emperor's palace stands in the centre of the city, within a double line of moats, on the site once occupied by_the Shogun's castle, and earlier still by Ota Dokwan's fortress. A whole network of canals, traversing the business quarter.of the city, connects these with the river Sumida. Tokyo has been burnt down and built up again many times, fires having formerly been as common in this wooden city as at Constantinople. It has also suffered much from earthquakes, especially from what is still remembered as the great earthquake of 1855.

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Tokyo covers an immense area, estimated before the close of the last century at 100 square miles, and it continues to grow rapidly. But this is partly owing to the large number of gardens and to the absence of many-storied buildings. The city is divided for administrative purposes into fifteen districts (Ku), viz : — 1, Koji-machi ; 2, Kanda ; 3, Nihon-bashi ; 4, Kyobashi ; 5, Shiba ; 6, Azabu ; 7, Akasaka ; 8, Yotsuya ; 9, Ushigome ; 10, Koishikawa ; 11, Hongo ; 12, Shitaya ; 13, Asakusa ; 14, Honjo ; 15, Fukagawa. The principal suburbs are Shinagawa S. , Naito Shinjuku W., Itabashi N. W., and Senju N. E. Since 1869, a great change has taken place in the outward appearance of the city.

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The yashiki, or Daimyo's mansions, have been pulled down to make room for public buildings, better adapted to modern needs. Railways and electric tramways now occupy large sections of the outer moat, and everywhere overhead is a network of telegraph, telephone, and electric light wires. The two-sworded men have disappeared, the palanquin has given place to the jinrikisha, and foreign dress has been very generally adopted by the male population.

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But Tokyo is picturesque notwithstanding, and as seen from any height has a tranquil and semi-rural aspect owing to the abundance of trees and foliage, — an effect increased of late years by the planting of numerous avenues of cherry-trees, which, early in April, transform the town into a garden of blossom. A plan of city improvement has been adopted, in conformity with which the narrower streets of any district burnt down are widened, and better sanitary arrangements introduced. Waterworks completed in 1901, supply Tokyo from the river Tamagawa, 24 miles distant. Owing to the shape and the vast extent of the city, it is impossible to combine the chief sights in a single round.

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The best plan is to take them in groups, according to the direction in which they lie. The following description proceeds on this principle. 1. — Shiba Park. Temples and Tombs of the Shoguns. Graves of the Forty-seven Ronin (Sengakuji). Atago-yama. Shiba Park (Shiba Koenchi) formed, till 1877, the grounds of the great Buddhist temple of Zojoji, the head-quarters in this city of the Jodo sect. The temple itself has been burnt down, only the large gate (Sammon) dating from 1623 being saved. Probably the temple will be rebuilt.

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In any case there remain, dotted about the grounds, the "Mortuary Temples" (O Tamaya) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns, Ieyasu, the founder of that dynasty having taken Zojoji under his special protection. The following is a list of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Those whose names are marked with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at the opposite end of Tokyo ; those whose names have a dagger prefixed lie at Nikko, and the others at Shiba. PERSONAL POSTHUMOUS DIED NAME. TITLE. A.D. 1. Ieyasu Toshogu 1616 2. Hidetada Taitoku-In 1632

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3. Iemitsu Taiyu-In 1651 4- *Ietsuna Genyu-In 1680 5. *Tsunayoshi Joken-In 1709 6. Ienobu Bunsho-In 1713 7. Ietsugu Yusho-In 1716 8. *Yoshimune Yutoku-In 1751 9. Ieshige Junshin-In 1761 10. *Ieharu Shimmei-In 1786 11. *Ienari Bunkyo-In 1841 12. Ieyoshi Shintoku-In 1853 13. *Iesada Onkyo-In . .1858 14. Iemochi Shotoku-In ..... 1866 15. Yoshinobu (usually called Keiki), abdicated in 1868, and is still living in retirement at Tokyo. The Shiba Temples, which count among the chief marvels of Japanese art, should, if possible, be visited on the forenoon of a fine day.

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Otherwise their situation, and the black hoarding which has been put up to ward off the attacks of the weather, will interfere with the full enjoyment of their minutely elaborate decorations. They may best be taken in the following order : — Persons pressed for time might limit themselves to an inspection of the temple and tomb (Octagonal Hall) of the 2nd Shogun only (see p. 120). A small fee is charged at each of the Mortuary Temples for seeing the interior, together with the tombs. Boots need not be taken off, covers being provided for them by the custodians.

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The entrance to the Mortuary Shrines of Ietsugu and Ieshige, the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is by a gate on the N. side of the enclosure, the main gates being permanently closed. The visitor is led round to the porch of the temple, where, among other triumphs of carving, are two dragons, called " the Ascending and Descending Dragons " (Nobori-ryu and Kudari-ryu), which serve as beams to connect the temple with two pillars outside. And, here be it noticed, each of these Mortuary Temples consists of three parts, — an outer oratory (haiden, a connecting gallery or corridor (ai-no-ma), and an inner sanctum (honden).

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In each of these one finds oneself in a blaze of gold, colours, and elaborate arabesques, which, especially if the day be fine, dazzle the eye by their brilliancy. In feudal times, when the Shogun came to worship the spirits of his ancestors, he alone ascended to the sanctum, the greater Daimyos ranged themselves next to him in the corridor below, and the lesser nobility occupied the oratory. On entering the oratory, observe the conventional paintings of lions on the wall. These are the work of Kano Chikanobu. Under the baldachin sits, on festival days (12th and 13th of each month, when visitors are not admitted), the abbot of Zojoji, while the priests are ranged around at small lacquer tables.

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The lacquer boxes on these tables contain scrolls of the Buddhist sutras. As we pass through the corridor, the side panels of painted flowers by the artist just mentioned, and the gorgeous panelling of the ceiling will arrest attention. The altar of this temple is separated from the corridor by one of those bamboo blinds bound with silk, which, together with a peculiar kind of banner, temper the brilliancy of the other decorations. The sanctum contains three doubleroofed shrines of gorgeous gold lacquer, picked out with bodycolour below the eaves, and held together by costly and elaborate metal-work.

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That to the r. contains a wooden image of the father of the 6th Shogun, that in the middle an image of the 7th Shogun, and that to the 1. one of the 9th Shogun, together with the funeral tablets of each. The images, which are considered sacred because presented by Mikados, are never shown. On either side of each shrine stand wooden statuettes of the Shi-Tenno, who guard the world against the attacks of demons. In front are Kwannon and Benten. The wall at the back is gilt, while the altar and two tables in front are of splendid red

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lacquer. In innumerable places may be seen the mitsu-aoi or three-leaved asarum, which is the crest of the Tokugawa family, and the lotus, the Buddhist emblem of purity. The altar is protected at night by massive gilt gates, ornamented with the family crest and conventional flowers. Returning to the porch, on the way from the temple to the tombs, we come to the O Kara Mon, or Chinese Gate, on either side of which extends a gallery with painted carvings of flowers and birds in the panels. Observe the angel on the ceiling, the work of Kano Chikanobu.

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[This gate is kept closed, preventing access to the court beyond, which is remarkable for a highly ornamented gate called the Choku-gaku Mon, or Gate of the Imperial Tablet ; also for being lined with bronze lanterns, two hundred and twelve in all, dating, some from A.D. 1716, some from 1761, the gift of Daimyos as a mark of respect to the memory of their deceased lord and master, the Shogun. Beyond it is another court containing numerous stone lanterns, and the outer gate called Ni-Ten Mon, or Gate of the Two Deva Kings.] As the guide leads the way to the tombs, observe on the eaves the carvings of musical instruments, lions, dragons, etc.

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Observe, too, the carvings of unicorns (kirin) on the Oshi-kiri Mon, or Dividing Gate, which is now passed through. Although the carving is openwork, the animals appear different according to the side from which they are viewed. Thence, through a noble court with more bronze lanterns, to a stone staircase which leads up to the site of the Tombs, — that of the 7th Shogun to the 1., that of the 9th Shogun to the r. Below each tomb is a highly decorated oratory. The tombs are of stone, in the shape called hoto (treasure shrine), which somewhat resembles a pagoda. They stand on an octagonal granite base, with stone balustrade. Their simplicity contrasts strongly with the lavish magnificence of all that goes before.

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As Mitford says in his Tales of Old Japan, " The sermon may have been preached by design, or it may have been by accident, but the lesson is there." The pattern on the black copper sheeting round the wall enclosing the tomb, is intended to represent the waves of the sea. The body is said to be buried at a depth of 20 ft., and to have been coated with vermilion and charcoal powder to prevent decay. The tomb of the 9th Shogun is a replica of that of the 7th. On passing the oratory of the 9th Shogun, notice the exquisite carvings in high relief of peacocks on the panels of the gate. Leaving this temple, we regain the main or tramway road through the park.

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The front gates of the mausolea are on the r., two of which are passed before coming to a huge bronze statue of Goto Shojiro, one of the leaders of the Restoration of 1868. Here turning up the wide road r. a small side door r., gives access to the temple and tombs of the 6th, 12th, and 14th Shoguns. In arrangement, this temple closely resembles the one we have just left; but the gilt is fresher, the carvings are closer to nature, and the general impression more magnificent, a result perhaps of the interest taken by the 6th Shogun in the preparation of his own last resting-place.

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The flowers and birds in the spaces between the cornice and the lintel of the oratory are perfect, both in chiselling and in delicacy of colour. The coffered ceiling is a masterpiece; and the vista of the altar, as one stands under the baldachin, reveals an indescribable glory of blended gold and colours. The panels are by Kano Yasunobu.

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The order of the shrines on the altar is, from r. to l., that of the 12th, 6th, and 14th Shoguns, the shrine of the last containing also the funeral tablet of his consort. From the Mortuary Temple, a flight of steps at the back leads up to the tombs of these three Shoguns and of the consort of the 14th, who was aunt to the present Emperor. Her obsequies, in 1877, were the last performed within these precincts. Each tomb has a small oratory attached. The fine bronze gate of the enclosure of No. 6, which is the first tomb reached, is said to be the work of Korean artificers; but the design was probably furnished by a Japanese draughtsman.

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The dragons in low relief on the r. and l., both inside and out, deserve special attention. Next to it is the tomb of the 12th Shogun, and beyond it again those of the 14th and his consort. The tomb of this princess is of bronze and marked with the Imperial crest, the sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum. Quitting the grounds of this Mortuary Temple we turn down l. to the main road, and enter the grounds of the Temple of Zojoji by the Great Gate (Sammon). Notice that it is lacquered red, not simply painted. The upper storey, which is reached by a steep staircase, contains gilt images of Shaka with Fugen and Monju, flanked by large coloured statues of the Sixteen Rakan.

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The grand bell, on the r., was saved from the fire of 1874. On the l. are the priests' apartments (Hojo) and temple offices (Jimusho). The main temple of Zojoji stood in front. Leaving the Zojoji enclosure by an opening to the r., we next reach the Mortuary Temple (Ten-ei-in) attached to the tombs of the consorts of the 2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th Shoguns. Admittance is by the priests' house to the l. Though the oratory is plainer than those already described, the altar is by no means less splendid. Gilded gates, gilded panelling, huge gilded pillars, - everything sparkles with gold, while the shrines on the altar are the finest specimens extant of a peculiar kind of lacquer adorned with metal work.

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Their order is, from r. to l., the consorts of the 12th, 6th, 2nd, and 11th Shoguns, while in the extreme l. corner is that of the concubine of the 5th. The coffered ceiling, decorated with the phoenix in various colours, is especially admired. From this temple, we pass into the court of that attached to the tomb of the 2nd Shogun, - entrance through the priests' house to the r. The sanctum is a grand example of Japanese religious architecture. Two huge gilded pillars called daijin-bashira, r. and l. of the altar, support the lofty vaulted roof, curiously constructed of a network of beams. The upper part of the walls is decorated with large carved medallions of birds in high relief, richly painted and gilt.

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The shrine is of fine gold lacquer, over

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two and a half centuries old, and the tables in front also deserve inspection. The bronze incenseburner in the form of a lion dates from 1635. Ieyasu's war-drum rests on a large ornamental stand. The coffers in the ceilings are filled with fretwork oyer lacquer. A short walk among the loftytrees behind to the 1. leads up to the Hakkaku-do, or Octagonal Hall, containing the tomb of the 2nd Shogun, which is the largest specimen of gold lacquer in the world and one of the most magnificent. Parts of it are inlaid with enamel and crystals.

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The scenes on the upper half represent the "Eight Views " of Siao-Siang in China and of Lake Biwa in Japan, while the lower half is adorned with the lion and peony,— the king of beasts and the king of flowers. The base is of stone shaped like a lotus-flower. The shrine contains only an effigy of the Shogun and his funeral tablet, the body being beneath the pavement. The interior walls of the hall are of lacquer gilded over. Eight pillars covered with gilt copper plates support the roof. Outside this building are two curiously carved stones, dating from 1644. The subject of one is " Shaka's Entry into Nirvana," and of the other the " Five-and-Twenty Bosatsu" coming with Amida to welcome the departed soul.

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The oratory in front of the Octagonal Hall contains nothing worthy of special notice. Descending again to the Mortuary Temple, and turning r., the visitor can either rejoin the main road and enter by the large gate, or walk direct for a hundred yards under the trees, to the temple of Ankoku-den. Here, on the 17th of every month, a popular festival is held in honour of the Shogun Ieyasu, who is worshipped as a Shinto deity under the name of Toshogu.

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Constructed when Buddhism was dominant, this temple is architecturally as highly ornamented as the rest, the present supremacy of the Shinto cult being indicated only by the paper symbols (gohei) in the oratory, which also contains a large bronze mirror and two gilt ama-inu. The sanctum (admittance through the Shamusho, or temple office, to the r.) stands behind, in a separate enclosure. The coffered ceiling is very fine, as are the hawks and birds of paradise on a gold ground in the panels round the interior. Particularly excellent is a painting by Kano Hogen at the back of the altar, representing Shaka attended by Monju and Fugen.

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The shrine is about 4 ft. high, with an elaborate cornice of three rows of brackets; and its walls are of splendid gold lacquer with raised designs. In front, on the door-panels, are eight small landscapes, with dragons descending through the clouds on either hand, At the sides are boldly designed groups of the pine and bamboo. Inside is a life-like wooden effigy of Ieyasu, which can be seen only on the 17th day of the month. A visit to Shiba may be terminated by walking up Maruyama, the little hill at the back, which commands a view of the bay.

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Close to the Pagoda, which is not open to the public, stands a monument erected in 1890 to the memory of Ino Chukei, the father of Japanese cartography, who flourished in the 18th century. The mound on which this monument stands has been discovered by Prof. Tsuboi to be an artificial tumulus (tsuka) of the gourd-shape used for Imperial interments over a thousand years ago ; and there are two smaller tumuli close by. The larger was probably the burialplace of some prince, as a branch of the reigning family settled in Eastern Japan in very early times. Thence one descends to the little Temple of Benten, prettily situated on an islet in a pond overgrown with lotuses.

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Further back in the wood stands the Koyo-kwan, or Maple Club, where dinners and

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beautiful dances in Japanese style are given. Shiba is seen to best advantage in early April, when the cherry-trees are in blossom. About 1 mile from the Shiba temples, in the direction of Shinagawa, stands the Buddhist temple of Sengakuji, where the Forty-seven Ronins (Shi-ju-shichi Shi) lie buried. For their dramatic story, see Things Japanese. A more minute account is given in Mitford's Tales of Old Japan. Just within the gate is a twostoried building called Kanranjo, where swords, armour, and other relics of these heroes are shown on payment of a small fee.

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The well (Kubi-arai ido), where the Ronins washed the head of the foe on whom they had taken vengeance, still exists by the side of the path leading to the tombs, which are ranged on the r. side of a small square court. That in the further corner is the grave of Oishi Kuranosuke, the leader of the faithful band ; the monument next to his, on the other side of the stone fence, marks the grave of the lord for whose sake he and his comrades sacrificed their lives. The popular reverence for these heroes is attested by the incense perpetually kept burning before Oishi' s grave, and by the visiting cards continually left there. Painted statuettes of the Bonins are exhibited in a building below.

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On the way back, one may obtain a good view of the city by going up Atago-yama, a small hill a short way to the N. of Shiba Park, named after the higher Mount Atago at Kyoto. (Atago is properly the name of a divinity; see p. 43.) Atagoyama, like many other such places in Japan, has two flights of steps leading up it, one of which, called "the men's staircase" (otoko-zaka), is straight and steep, while the other, or "women's staircase" (onna-zaka), is circuitous but less fatiguing. A tower has been erected on Atago-yama, which visitors pay a trifling fee to ascend. The view includes Fuji, the Hakone range, Oyama, Mitake, Tsukuba, and the provinces beyond Tokyo Bay with Kano-zan and Nokogiriyama.

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2. — Akasaka and Azabu. Akasaka and Azabu are the highest and healthiest districts of Tokyo, but contain little to interest the tourist. In a part of Akasaka called Aoyama, is situated the palace occupied by the Crown Prince. It is not open to the public; but the elite of Tokyo society is invited there once yearly to a garden party given in November, on the occasion of what is perhaps the most wonderful chrysanthemum show in the world. Closely adjoining it, is a large Parade Ground (Rempei-ba), where the annual review on the Emperor's birthday is held. A little further to the S. lies the Aoyama Cemetery, part of which has been reserved for the interment of foreigners.

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To the W. of Azabu, in the suburb of Shibuya, stands the Red Cross Hospital (Seki-juji-sha Byoin). 3. — Chief Buildings in Kojimachi. The Diet. Sanno. Shokonsha. On the S. side of Hibiya Park stand the wooden buildings of the Imperial Diet. Just beyond them on the r. (lining the W. side of the Park) are the extensive brick edifices belonging to the Naval Department, the Judicial Department, and the Courts of Justice. To the extreme 1., above an embankment, will be seen the brick buildings completed in 1877 for the College of Engineering, the

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earliest scientific academy established in Japan, and presided over by British professors. They are now used as girls' schools. The new Tokyo Club stands in these grounds. Crossing the wide road, we pass, 1. the Russian Embassy, r. the Foreign Office ( Gwaimusho), and at the top of the ascent the Chinese Legation. Behind this, on a prettily wooded eminence, stands the Shinto Temple of Sanno, officially styled Hie Jinja. Dating in its present form from 1654, it was adopted by the Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty as their tutelary shrine. All the buildings, except the main temple, are falling into decay.

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Each of the inner compartments of the large gate contains a seated image of a monkey ornamented with a bib, that animal being regarded as the servant of the divinity of Hie, for which reason monkeys also figure on the altar. This neighbourhood, of which the chief part is called Nagata-cho, is the most fashionable in Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of Princes Kita-Shirakawa and Arisugawa, and the residences of many high officials and foreign diplomats. Hence, in local parlance, it is sometimes nicknamed Daimyo Koji, or the Nobles' Quarter.

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Below Prince Kita-Shirakawa's Palace lies the Kioi-cho Koenchi, a garden planted with azaleas and containing a huge monolith commemorative of Okubo Toshimichi, one of the founders of the new order of things in Japan, who was assassinated near this spot in 1878. On the flat top of the Kudan hill, a short way beyond the British Embassy, stands the Shinto temple of Yasukuni Jinja, also known as Shokonsha, or Spirit-Invoking Shrine. The Honden, or Main Shrine, of this temple, built in accordance with the severest canons of pure Shinto architecture, was erected in 1869 for the worship of the spirits of those who had fallen fighting for the Mikado's cause in the revolutionary war of the previous year.

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The Haiden was added in 1901. Services are also held in honour of those who fell in the Saga troubles of 1873, the Satsuma rebellion of 1877, and subsequent foreign wars. The principal memorial services take place on the 6-8th May and 6-8th November, when wrestling and other popular amusements enliven the occasion. The enormous bronze torii was set up in December, 1887. The grounds behind the temple have been tastefully laid out, and look their best in early spring when the plum and cherry-trees are in blossom. The brick building to the r. of the temple is the Yushu-kwan, a Museum of Arms, which is open from 8 a.m. till 5 p.m. in summer, and from 9 to 3 in winter.

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It well deserves a visit, for the sake of the magnificent specimens of old Japanese swords and scabbards which it contains, as well as armour, old Korean bronze cannon, trophies of the China war of 1894-5, the war with Russia, (1904-5) etc. The 28 centimetre gun outside was manufactured at the Osaka arsenal, and used at the siege of Port Arthur for the destruction of the Russian ships; the broken 23 centimetre gun was taken after the capitulation. The numerous portraits of modern military men are depressing specimens of the painter's handicraft; but a series of large coloured photographs of scenes in the war with Russia merit all praise.

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The granite lanterns around the wide enclosure, outside the temple grounds, were presented by the nobility in 1878. The large bronze statue of Omura Hyobu Tayu, a distinguished patriot in the war that restored the Mikado to power, was erected in 1882, and is remarkable as the first Japanese example of this method of commemorating departed worth. Near by, but beyond this enclosure, overlooking

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the moat, is a statue to another eminent soldier, of later times, General Kawakami. Close to it stands a monument in the shape of a bayonet, erected by the soldiers of the Imperial Guard, in memory of their comrades who fell fighting on the loyalist side in the Satsuma rebellion. This point overlooks the city in the direction of Ueno. The prominent edifice on the bluff opposite (Suruga-dai) is the Russian Cathedral, consecrated in 1891. To the citizens of Tokyo it is familiarly known as Nikorai, from Bishop Nicolai, who built it. The ancient stone beacon, on the opposite side of the road, formerly lighted junks on their way up Yedo Bay.

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At the foot of Kudan-zaka stands the Temple of Ontake, where the curious ceremonies of "Ordeal by Boiling Water " and " Walking over Fire" are held on the 8-9th April and 16-17th September. For details, see Things Japanese, article Fire-walking. 4. — Kojimachi (continued). The Inner Moat. The Imperial Palace. Insatsu Kyoku. Another and more direct way from the hotels' (and passing by the British Embassy), to the Shokonsha at Kudan, is to take the broad road by the Palace moat on the N. side of Hibiya Park. Proceeding along it, and passing r. the second of the gates (Sakurada Go Mon) leading to the Palace, we notice, on an eminence 1., the General Staff Office.

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The moat here, with its green banks and spreading trees, and in winter the numerous wild-fowl fluttering in the water, is one of the prettiest bits of Tokyo. The vast enclosure of the Imperial Palace lies beyond. The Imperial Palace. The new Palace, inhabited by the Emperor and Empress is not accessible to the public, only those who are honoured with an Imperial Audience being admitted within its gates. Nevertheless, the following description, abridged from the Japan Mail, may be of interest : — Entering through long corridors isolated by massive iron doors, we find ourselves in the smaller of two reception rooms, and at the commencement of what seems an endless vista of crystal chambers.

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This effect is due to the fact that the shoji, or sliding doors, are of plateglass. The workmanship and decoration of these chambers are truly exquisite. It need scarcely be said that the woods employed are of the choicest description, and that the carpenters and joiners have done their part with such skill as only Japanese artisans seem to possess. Each ceiling is a work of art, being divided by lacquer ribs of a deep brown colour into numerous panels, each of which contains a beautifully executed decorative design, painted, embroidered, or embossed.

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The walls are covered in most cases with rich but chaste brocades, except in the corridors, where a thick, embossed paper of charming tint and pattern shows what skill has been developed in this class of manufacture at the Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid this luxury of well-assorted but warm tints, remain the massive square posts, — beautiful enough in themselves, but scarcely harmonising with their environment, and introducing an incongruous element into the building. The true type of what may be called Imperial aesthetic decoration was essentially marked by refined simplicity, — white wooden joinery, with pale neutral tints and mellow gilding.

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The splendour of richly painted ceilings, lacquered lattice- work, and brocaded walls was reserved for Buddhist temples and mausolea. Thus we have the Shinto, or true Imperial style, presenting itself in the severely colourless pillars, while

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the resources of Buddhist architecture have been drawn upon for the rest of the decoration. In one part of the building the severest canons have been strictly followed : the six Imperial Studies, three below stairs and three above, are precisely such chaste and pure apartments as a scholar would choose for the abode of learning. By way of an example in the other direction, we may take the Banqueting Hall, — a room of magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and noble proportions, its immense expanse of ceiling glowing with gold and colours, and its broad walls hung with the costliest silks. The Throne Chamber is scarcely less striking, though of smaller dimensions and more subdued decoration.

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Every detail of the work shows infinite painstaking, and is redolent of artistic instinct. A magnificent piece of tapestry hangs in one of the reception rooms. It is 40 ft. by 13 ft., woven in one piece by Kawashima of Kyoto. The weaving is of the kind known as tsuzuri-ori, so called because each part of the design is separated from the body of the stuff: by a border of pinpoints, so that the whole pattern seems suspended in the material. The subject represented is an Imperial procession in feudal Japan, and the designer has succeeded in grouping an immense number of figures with admirable taste and skill.

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The colours are rich and harmonious, and the whole forms probably one of the finest pieces of tapestry in existence. The furniture of the palace was imported from Germany. Externally the principal buildings are all in pure Japanese style. The unpretentious brick and plaster structure to be seen from the E. side, rising above the moat in the palace enclosure, contains the offices of the Imperial Household Department. The bronze equestrian statue, occupying the S.E. corner of the wide open space opposite the Niju-bashi Bridge and representing the loyalist warrior, Kusunoki Masashige (see p.

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79), was erected in 1900.— On leaving this space and crossing the moat, we come to another wide extent of ground called Maru-no-uchi, formerly occupied by Daimyos' mansions, and now gradually being covered with the offices of various public companies. Not far off, in an E. direction, is the Insatsu Kyoku, or Government Printing Office, a large and well-organized establishment, to the inspection of which a day may be profitably devoted, as its scope is very wide, including much besides mere printing. Here, among other things, is manufactured the paper currency of the country.

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The Ministries of Finance, of Education, and of the Interior, together with various other Government offices, are in the same neighbourhood. 5. Ginza. Suitengu. Nihom-bashi. Curio Street. Seido. Kanda Myojin. Imperial University. Dango-zaka. O-Gwannon. Botanical Garden. Koishikawa Arsenal and Garden. Gokokuji. The most important thoroughfare in Tokyo, which none should fail to see, leads from the Shimbashi terminus to Mansei-bashi and Ueno. The portion of it lying nearest the station is commonly called the Ginza. Proceeding along it, the traveller crosses the Kyobashi and Nihom-bashi bridges, from the latter of which all distances in Eastern Japan are calculated. The General Post-Office stands close by.

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Parallel to the portion of the main thoroughfare between these bridges is Naka-dori, a street attractive on account of its second-hand curio shops. Nihom-bashi has also given its name to the surrounding large and busy district, which is filled with shops, market-places, and

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godowns. The great fish-market is a notable sight in the early hours of the morning. Another sight (chiefly on the 5th day of the month, but also on the 1st and 15th) is afforded by the concourse of worshippers at the Temple of Suitengu, in Kakigara-cho. Notice the brass cylinders hung to metal pillars in the grounds, and used by the inquisitive for reading their own fortunes (mikuji). These cylinders contain brass slips with such inscriptions in Chinese characters as " very lucky," " half lucky," "unlucky," etc.- For the deity here worshipped, see p. 54.

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At Mansei-bashi station is a bronze group of Commander Hirose, the first naval hero of the Russian war, and his trusty quarter-master Sugino, in the endeavour to save whose life he lost his own. Just beyond to the 1. stands Seido,— the "Sage's Hall," or Temple of Confucius, formerly a University of Chinese learning, now used as an Educational Museum. It is situated on rising ground in the midst of a grove of trees, among which the fragrant mokusei is most conspicuous. The buildings, which date from 1691, are fine specimens of the Chinese style of architecture.

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The main hall facing the entrance is supported on black lacquered pillars, the ceiling also is of black lacquer, while the floor is of finely chiselled square blocks of stone. Opposite the door is enshrined a painted wooden image of Confucius, possessing considerable merit as a work of art. He is flanked by other Chinese sages : Mencius and Chwang Tzu, r. Ganshi and Shishi. Just above, in the same grounds, stands the Middle School' attached to the Higher Normal School, while adjoining it is the Female Higher Normal School. Behind the Seido, is the Ryobu Shinto temple of Kanda Myojin, dedicated to the god Onamuji and to Masakado, a celebrated rebel of the 10th century (see p. 79).

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After the final overthrow of Masakado, his ghost used to haunt the neighbourhood. In order to lay this spectre, apotheosis was resorted to in the 13th century. The temple, for which a hoary antiquity is claimed, but which was only established on its present site in 1616, has been frequently burnt down and rebuilt since that time. The temple, originally decorated with paintings by artists of the Kano school, has now grown dingy, but is still popular with the multitude. The chief festival, celebrated on the 15th September, is well worth seeing.

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Entering the main street of the district of Kanda, one of the chief arteries of the northern portion of the metropolis, we come r. to the extensive buildings of the Imperial University (Teikoku Daigaku), standing in the grounds of the former mansion of the great Daimyo of Kaga. The germ of this institution was the Bansho Shirabe-jo or " Place for the Examination of Barbarian Writings," founded by the Tokugawa Government in 1856. Seven years later, this name was altered to that of Kaisei-jo, or " Place for Developing and Completing," which indicated a change for the better in the views held by the Japanese as to the value of European learning.

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Numerous other modifications have taken place both in the name and scope of the institution, which since 1881 has been placed on a thoroughly modern footing, and now includes colleges of Law, Medicine, Engineering, Literature, Science, and Agriculture, where lectures are delivered by a large staff of professors of various nationalities and in various languages. The students number over 5,000. The courses that attract most students are those of Law, Medicine, and Engineering. A large hospital connected with the University stands in the same grounds. Other institutions under the authority of the President are the Botanical Garden in the district of Koishikawa and the Tokyo Observatory at Iigura.

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Further on, to the N.E. are the florists' gardens of Dangozaka, whither the towns-folk resort in thousands to see the chrysanthemum shows in November. The flowers are trained over trellis- work to represent historical and mythological

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scenes, ships, dragons, and other curious objects. The O-G-wannon, or Great Kwannon, may be worth a passing visit. The gilt image, which is 16 ft. high, was an offering made in the 17th century by a merchant of Yedo, and represents the goddess bending slightly forward, and holding in her hand the lotus, the emblem of purity. Round the walls of the shrine containing the image, are ranged in tiers the Sen-tai Kwannon, or images of the Thousand Incarnations of Kwannon. The Koishikawa Botanical Garden (Shoku-butsu-en) is open to the public, and duplicate specimens of the plants may be purchased at the office. The Koishikawa Arsenal (Hohei Kosho) occupies the site of the former mansion of the Prince of Mito.

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An order from the military authorities is necessary to gain admittance. An order is also necessary for the Garden (Koraku-en), which still remains intact, and is the finest specimen of the Japanese landscape gardener's art to be seen in the capital. The object of its designer was to reproduce in miniature many of the scenes whose names are classic among the literati of Japan. Prince Mitsukuni, generally known as Mito Komon, laid out the grounds as a place in which to enjoy a calm old age after a life of labour.

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If the visitor has first inspected the Arsenal, he will then be conducted to a summer-house in the garden, with an extensive grass-plot attached, and overlooking a lake copied from a noted one in China, called Sei-ko. A small wooded hill rises beyond, which we ascend, and on which stands a miniature replica of the famous temple of Kiyomizu at Kyoto, enriched with carvings, but worn by time. Descending, we are plunged for a minute in the depths of a wood before reaching an old bridge with a rivulet running far below.

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On crossing the bridge a zigzag path leads to the shrine of Haku-i and Shiku-sei, the loyal brothers of Chinese tradition, who, after the overthrow of their lord and master, refused to eat the grain produced under the conqueror's sway, and, secluding themselves on Mount Shuyo, lived on ferns till, being told that ferns grew also on their enemy's lands, they abstained even from that poor food, and so died of starvation. An arched stone bridge and another shrine, shaped octagonally in allusion to the Eight Diagrams of the Chinese system of divination, are next passed. From here, a tunnel-like opening leads through a thicket of creepers and other trees to a lake several acres in extent and full of lotuses.

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The water, which comes from the Tamagawa aqueduct, is made to form a pretty cascade before falling into the lake. An island in the centre is connected with the mainland by a bridge. Everywhere there are magnificent trees, — cherry-trees for the spring, maples for the autumn, plumtrees for the winter, making a change of scene at each season. Near the exit is a hill with a path paved in such manner as to imitate the road over the Hakone Pass. On the extreme N.W. outskirts of the city stands the Buddhist temple of Gokokuji, now used as the head-quarters of the Shingon sect, which has a seminary for young priests.

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With its extensive grounds, its silent belfry, and the perfect stillness of its surroundings, it recalls the memory of days now irrevocably past, when Buddhism was a mighty power in the land. The azaleas here are noted for their beauty. The chief treasure of the temple is a gigantic kakemono of Buddha's Entry into Nirvana, by Kano Yasunobu, which is shown only during the month of April. Adjoining Gokokuji is the new Cemetery of the Imperial family, selected since the removal of the Court to Tokyo. It is not open to the public. 6.— Ueno Park, Temples, and Museum. Asakusa. Higashi Hongwanji. Temple of Kwannon. MUKOJIMA. KOKOKU-MURA. HORIKIRI.

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Ueno Park, famed for its Temples and Tombs of the Shoguns, is the most popular resort in the metropolis. Here, in April, all Tokyo assembles to admire the wonderful mass of cherry-blossom

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for which it is famous. No traveller should miss this opportunity of witnessing a scene charming alike for natural beauty and picturesque gaiety. The importance of Ueno, which lies due N. E. of the palace, had its origin in a wide-spread superstition, which regards that quarter as the most unlucky of all the points of the compass, and brands it with the name of Ki-mon, or the Demon's Gate. When, therefore, some progress had been made in the construction of the city of Yedo, the Shogun Iemitsu, in the year 1625, determined to erect here a set of Buddhist temples, which, eclipsing all others in splendour, should ward off the approach of evil influences.

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The original main temple (Kwan-ei-ji) then founded occupied the site of the present Museum, but was burnt down in 1868 on the occasion of a fierce battle fought between the partisans of the Shogunate and those of the new regime. In this temple always resided as high-priest a son of the reigning Mikado, retained in gilded slavery for political reasons, as it was convenient for the Shoguns to have in their power a prince who could at once be decorated with the Imperial title, should the Court of Kyoto at any time prove refractory. The last high-priest of Ueno was actually utilised in this manner by the Shognn's partisans, and carried off by them to Aizu in 1868, when they raised the standard of rebellion.

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On the Europeanisation of the country he was known as Prince Kita-Shirakawa, and died commanding an army in Formosa in the year 1895. Leaving his jinrikisha at the bottom of the hill, the traveller ascends r. a short flight of steps, leading to a plateau planted with cherry-trees and commanding a good view of the city, especially towards Asakusa, including the twelve-storied tower which is seen rising beyond the Ueno railway station, and the high roof of the great Hongwanji temple. The bronze statue of Saigo Takamori (see p. 82) was erected in 1899. The stone monument close by is dedicated to the soldiers who fell fighting for the Shogun' s cause in the battle of Ueno.

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To the 1., is a dingy Buddhist temple sacred to the Thousand-handed Kwannon. Descending again to the main road, we reach the celebrated Avenue of cherry-trees, a uniquely beautiful sight during the brief season of blossom, when the air seems to be filled with pink clouds. To the 1. lies a shallow piece of water, called Shinobazu no Ike, celebrated for its lotus-flowers in August. On a little peninsula jutting out into the lake, is a shrine sacred to the goddess Benten. A little further up is the Seiyoken Restaurant, which commands a good view. The extensive buildings of the Imperial University are seen in the distance. Close to the restaurant is a bronze image of Buddha, 21 1/2 ft. high, known as the Daibutsu.

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This inferior specimen of the bronzeworker's art dates from about the year 1660. The turning to the 1. of the Buddha leads to a massive torii. Along the avenue of stately cryptomerias stand an ancient pagoda and an elaborately decorated gate at the end of a long row of stone lanterns, presented in 1651 by various Daimyos as a tribute to the memory of the Shogun Ieyasu. To this Shogun, under his posthumous name of Toshogu or Gongen Sama, the shrine within is dedicated. The gate itself, restored in 1890, is already tarnished by exposure to the elements. Carvings of dragons adorn it on either side ; above are geometrical figures, birds, foliage, and everywhere the Tokugawa crest of three asarum leaves.

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The temple contains some fine specimens of lacquer. Round the walls hang pictures of the San-ju-rok-ka-sen (see p. 83), below which are screens with conventional lions. Regaining the main road, we come to the statue of General Prince Komatsu, erected in 1912 ; and further on, to some exhibition buildings. Immediately behind them stands the Ueno Museum ( Ueno Hakubutsu-kwan). This institution, which is open daily from 8 to 5 in summer, and from 9 to 4 in winter, with the exception of the ten days from the 25th December to the 4th January, well merits a

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visit. But no details of the arrangement of the contents can here be given, as, for some unexplained reason, it is perpetually altered. Notice in the Natural History Department the cocks from Tosa with tails 14 1/2 ft. long. The Historical and Archaeological Departments offer special interest. Here are to be seen stone arrowheads, spear-heads, and pottery of the prehistoric period ; proto-historic copper bells and mirrors, iron swords, armour, horse-trappings, shoes, and cooking utensils. Besides the above, notice also the pottery anciently employed for the presentation of offerings to the Shinto gods.

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Some pieces from the provinces on the N.E. shore of the Inland Sea are remarkably ornamented with human figures in high relief. Particularly curious are the earthenware images of men and horses used in proto-historic times for interment in the graves of illustrious personages, after the custom of burying their chief retainers alive with them had been discontinued, the figures of birds — apparently geese —which were used as a fence round the tumulus of the Emperor Ojin in the province of Kawachi, and fragments of earthenware posts put to a similar purpose. The most characteristically prehistoric Japanese specimens are the maga-tama and kuda-tama in jasper, agate, and other materials.

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The maga-tama, or " curved jewels," which somewhat resemble a tadpole in shape, were anciently (say, prior to the 7th century) strung together and used as necklaces and ornaments for the waist both by men and women, as were also the Kuda-tama, or " tube-shaped jewels." Their use survived in the Luchu Islands till a much more recent date. There are also shown objects illustrating the manners and customs of the Chinese, Koreans, Australian aborigines, natives of India, American Indians, and Siberian tribes, and others illustrating Japan's semi-foreign dependencies,— Formosa, Yezo, and Luchu. Some Christian relics will specially interest the European visitor.

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They include the fumiita, or " trampling boards " — oblong blocks of metal with figures in high relief of Christ before Pilate, the Descent from the Cross, the Virgin and Child, etc., on which persons suspected of the crime of Christianity were made to trample during times of persecution, in order to testify their abjuration of the "Depraved Sect," as it was called. One of the old kosatsu, or public notice boards prohibiting Christianity, is also here exhibited. Observe, furthermore, the Imperial state bullock cart and palanquins and the model of the Tenchi Maru, or Ship of Heaven and Earth, which was the state barge used by the Shoguns.

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The stiff flowers and geometrical patterns of the Imperial bullock cart exemplify a feature often noticed in early Japanese ornamentation, when art was still in Chinese leading-strings, and had not yet gained the freedom, together with the happy use of irregularity, characteristic of later days. Examine also the fac-similes of objects from the famous temple store-houses of Nara and Horyuji, over twelve hundred years old, together with the temple furniture, seals, tokko, rosaries, etc., old boxes, images, and other objects, the most interesting to the antiquarian being the specimens of the miniature pagodas (Hachiman-to), of which, in A.D.

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764, the reigning Empress caused a million to be made for distribution throughout the land. The Art Industry Department, contains lacquer, porcelain, bronze, etc., — a large collection of articles of rare beauty. The new building (Hyokei-kwan) to the 1., was erected by the Municipality to commemorate the wedding of the Crown Prince. It contains a beautiful collection of kakemonos and screens, besides less

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successful pictures in European style; likewise a choice collection of lacquer bequeathed to the Japanese nation by Mr. Quincey A. Shaw, of Boston. On quitting the Museum, an avenue r. leads to a Public Library and Reading Room (Tosho-kwan), the largest in the empire, to the 1. of which is an Art School (Bijutsu Gakko), not accessible without a special introduction. Close by are the Zoological Gardens (Dobutsu-en). After passing the Tosho-kwan, an avenue turns off r. to the Tombs of the Shoguns (Go Reiya), abutting on the second and finer of the two Mortuary Temples (Ni no Go Reiya). The main gate is always kept closed, but a side entrance 1. leads to the priests' house.

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The resident custodian will act as guide for a small fee. The six Shoguns buried at Ueno belonged to the Tokugawa family, being the 4th, 5th, 8th, 10th, 11th, and 13th, of their line. It is still at the private expense of the family that these shrines are kept up In general style, they closely resemble those at Shiba, described on pp. 115—120, and rank among the priceless legacies of the art of Old Japan. Like the Shiba shrines, too, they have suffered at the hands of thieves since the Revolution of 1868.

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This building, a symphony in gold and blended colours, has a wooden colonnade in front, the red walls of which are divided into compartments, each containing a medallion in the centre, filled with painted open-work carvings of birds and flowers, with arabesques derived from the chrysanthemum above and a carved wave-design below. In the centre of this colonnade is a gate decorated with a painting of an angel. From here, an open colonnade leads up to the steps of the main buildings. The porch has brackets carved with conventional chrysanthemums. Its square columns are adorned with plum-blossoms in red and gold. Under the beams are red and gold lions' heads as brackets.

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The doors of the oratory are carved in diapers, and gilded all over. Note the tastefully painted diapers on the architrave. The ceiling is massive, and loaded with metal fastenings; in the coffers are dragons in gold on a blue ground. The interior walls are gilded, having in some places conventional paintings of lions, in others movable shutters. This apartment is 48 ft, wide by 21 ft, in depth. The corridor which succeeds it is 12 ft. wide by 24 ft, in depth, and leads to the black lacquered steps of the inner sanctum. Its ceiling is decorated with the phoenix on a green and gold ground.

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Handsome gilt doors covered with carved arabesques close the entrance to the sanctum, which measures 21 ft. in depth by 33 ft. in width. The ceiling is decorated with fine gilt lattice- work in the coffers. The small shrines, containing the memorial tablets of the illustrious dead, are gorgeous specimens of gold lacquer. Beginning at the r., these shrines are respectively those of the 5th, 8th, and 13th Shoguns, and of Kokyo-In, son of the 10th Shogun. R. and 1. are two shrines containing tablets of eight mothers of Shoguns. Curiously enough, all were concubines, not legitimate consorts. The actual graves are in the grounds behind. The finest, a bronze one, is that of the 5th Shogun.

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Its bronze gate has magnificent panels, with the phoenix and unicorn in bas-relief, — Korean casting from Japanese designs about 150 years old. The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi no Go Beiya) stands close to the Second. On leaving the Second, turn to the 1. to reach the priests' house, where application for admission must be made. Here are buried the 4th, 10th, and 11th Shoguns, together with several princesses. The monument of the 4th is in bronze, the others in simple stone. Over the grave of the 11th Shogun hangs a weeping cherry-tree, placed there

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to commemorate the love of flowers which distinguished that amiable prince, whose reign ( A.D. 1787-1838) formed the culminating point of the splendour of Old Japan. On the N.E. side of the park, a little to the r., of the Museum, stands the Buddhist temple of Ryo-Daishi, dedicated to the two great abbots, Jie Daishi and Jigen Daishi, the former of whom flourished in the 9th century, the latter in the 16th and 17th. The portrait of Jie Daishi here preserved is considered one of the masterpieces of the great painter Kano Tan-yu. Note the six large bronze lanterns and the waterstand in the court-yard; also the large stupa for the reception of relics to the 1. on entering.

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On this side of the park are some buildings commonly devoted to art exhibitions of various kinds. We now leave Ueno, and passing along a busy thoroughfare, reach the district of Asakusa. The first object of interest here is the spacious temple of Higashi Hongwanji, popularly called Monzeki, the chief religious edifice in Tokyo of the Monto sect of Buddhists. Though very plain, as is usual with the buildings of this sect, the Monzeki deserves a visit on account of its noble proportions. It was founded in 1657. The iron netting thrown over the temple is intended to prevent sparks from falling on the wood-work, should a conflagration occur in the neighbourhood.

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The huge porch is adorned with finely carved wooden brackets, the designs being chrysanthemum flowers and leaves, and peony flowers and leaves. On the transverse beams are some curiously involved dragons, which are the best specimens of this sort of work in Tokyo. Observe, too, the manner— peculiar to the buildings of this sect — in which the beams are picked out with white. The area of the matted floor of the nave (gejin) is 140 mats, and round the front and sides runs a wooden aisle 12 ft. wide. Over the screen which separates the chancel and its sidechapels from the nave, are massive gilt open-work carvings of angels and phoenixes, the largest of which are 12 ft. in length by 4 ft. in height.

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The rest *of the building is unadorned. Hanging against the gilt background on either side of the altar, are to be seen several kakemonos of Buddhist saints scarcely distinguishable in the "dim religious light ; " also r. the posthumous tablet of Iyeyasu, which is exposed for veneration on the 17th of each month. The honzon, Amida, is a black image, always exposed to view, and standing in a handsome shrine of black and gold lacquer. From the r. side of the main hall, a bridge leads down to the Jiki-do, or preaching hall.

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At the main temple, sermons are only preached for one week in the year, viz from the 21st to 28th November, when the imposing services (Ho-onko) held in honour of the founder of the sect are well worth witnessing. On this occasion, the male worshippers all appear in the style of dress known as kata-ginu, and the females with a head-dress called tsuno-kakushi (lit. "horn-hider"), — both relics of the past. The " hornhider " would seem to have been so named in allusion to a Buddhist text which says : " A woman's exterior is that of a saint, but her heart is that of a demon' — Lesser services are held at the time of the vernal and autumnal equinoxes.

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Quaint testimony is borne to the popularity of this temple with the lower middle class by the notices posted up on some of the great columns in the main hall. Not only is there one to prohibit smoking, but one warning people not to come here for their afternoon nap (Hiru-ne muyo)! On quitting the Monzeki, notice its nobly massive roof, with lions rampant at the corners, also the two large monoliths r., commemorative of soldiers who fell in the China war of 1894-5.

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About 7 cho from the Monzeki, stands the great Buddhist temple of Sensoji, popularly known as the Asakusa Kwannon, because dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess of Mercy. A fabulous antiquity is claimed for the founding in this locality of a shrine sacred to Kwannon, the tradition being that the image which is now worshipped there, was fished up on the neighbouring strand during the reign of the Empress Suiko (A.D. 593-628) by a noble of the name of Hashi-no-Nakatomo, who had been exiled to this then desolate portion of the coast, and with two attendants gained his livelihood by casting his nets at the mouth of the river Sumida.

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In his fishing-hut the first altar is said to have been raised ; and the crest of three nets, which is to be seen marking certain portions of the buildings, was devised in memory of the event. The miraculous image is never shown, but is commonly believed to be but 1 3/4 inch in height : and the disproportion between the smallness of the image and the vastness of the temple has passed into a popular saying. Instead of the original sacred image, there is exhibited on the 13th December of every year a newer and larger one which stands in front of the high altar. In the year 1180 Yoritomo endowed the temple with ninety acres of arable land.

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But when Ieyasu made Yedo his capital, he found the place gone to ruin, and the priests living in idleness and immorality. The present buildings date from the reign of Iemitsu, after the destruction by fire of the former edifice. They are in the possession of the Tendai sect of Buddhists.

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On no account should a visit to this popular temple and the surrounding grounds (Koenchi) be omitted; for it is a great holiday resort of the middle and lower classes, and nothing is more striking than the juxtaposition of piety and pleasure, of gorgeous altars and grotesque ex-votos, of dainty costumes and dingy idols, the clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens and pigeons strutting about among the worshippers, children playing, soldiers smoking, believers chaffering with dealers of charms, ancient art, modern advertisements, — in fine, a spectacle than which surely nothing more motley was ever witnessed within the precincts of a religious edifice.

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The most crowded times are Sunday afternoon, and the 17th and 18th of each month, days sacred to Kwannon. The outer main gate of the temple no longer exists. One walks up through a lane of red brick shops, where toys, cakes, photographs, and gewgaws of all kinds are spread out to tempt the multitude. The two-storied gate in front of the temple is a huge structure of red wood, with images of the Ni-o on either side. The immense sandals hung up in front of the cages containing these images, are placed there by persons desirous of becoming good walkers.

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To the 1., immediately before passing through the big gate, is a popular Shrine of Fudo, just outside of which is a shrine of Jizo, distinguishable by a praying- wheel (gosho-guruma) fixed in a wooden pillar, the whole roughly resembling a pillar postbox. There is a newer and better one inside the court of the Fudo shrine, with an inscription to the " Lord Jizo, Nourisher of Little Children" (see p. 47). Images of Jizo stand behind it on a small hexagonal structure. The praying- wheel is, in Japan, found only in connection with the mystic doctrine of the Tendai and Shingon sects, and its use differs slightly from that to which it is put in Thibet.

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No prayers are written on it ; but the worshipper, attributing to ingwa (the Sanskrit karma, which means, the effect in this life of the actions in a former state of existence) any sin of which he wishes to be cleansed, or any desire that occurs to him, turns the wheel with a simple request to Jizo to let this ingwa duly run its course — the course of ingwa resembling the perpetual revolutions of a wheel. On the opposite or r. side of the lane, on a mound, is the large Asakusa bell, whose sonorous notes are heard all over the northern part of the city. The octagonal stone towers, one on either side, just within the gate, are electric light beacons, presented by devotees.

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The great hall of the temple of Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is

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entirely surrounded by a wide gallery. The large picture hanging above the entrance to the r. symbolises life (under the figure # of two sleeping men and a sleeping tiger) as nothing more than a dream, the only living reality in which is the power of religion (typified by a Buddhist priest). The eye is caught, on entering, by the immense number of lanterns and pictures which cover the ceiling and walls. These are all offerings presented by believers. Some of the pictures are by good modern artists. One over the shrine to the r. represents a performance of the No, or medieval lyric drama, in which the red-haired sea-demon called Shojo plays the chief part.

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Opposite is a curious painted carving in relief, representing three Chinese heroes of antiquity. Just below this rests a huge mokugyo, — a hollow wooden block, fish-shaped, which priests strike while praying. The ceiling is painted with figures of angels, the work of Kano Doshun. The seated image to the r., with a pink bib round its neck, is a celebrated work of Jikaku Daishi, and represents Binzuru, the helper of the sick. At any time of the day believers may be observed rubbing it (see p. 44), so that it is now partially rubbed away.

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The stalls in front of the main shrine are for the sale of pictures of the goddess Kwannon, which are used as charms against sickness, to help women in childbirth, etc., of tickets to say whether a child about to be born will be a boy or a girl, and so forth. There is also a place where fortunes are told by the priests. The chancel is, as usual, separated from the nave by a wire screen, and is not accessible to the public. A small gratuity to one of the priests in charge will, however, generally procure admission.

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On the high altar, resplendent with lamps, flowers, gold damask, and sacred vessels, and guarded by figures of the Shi-Tenno, of Bonten, and of Taishaku,— the latter said to be the work of Gyogi Bosatsu, — stands the shrine containing the sacred image of Kwannon. On either side are ranged images, some 2 or 3 ft. high, of Kwannon in her "Three-and-Thirty Terrestrial Embodiments," each set in a handsome shrine standing out against the gold ground of the wall. Right and l. of the altar hang a pair of votive offerings— golden horses in high relief on a lacquer ground— presented by the Shogun Iemitsu. On the ceiling is a dragon, the work of Kano Eishin. The side altar to the r. is dedicated to Fudo.

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Observe the numerous vessels used in the ceremony of the Goma prayers, which are frequently offered up here for the recovery of the sick. The twelve small images are the Ju-ni Doji, or attendants of Kwannon. The altar to the 1. is dedicated to Aizen Myo-o, whose red image with three eyes and six arms is contained in a small shrine. The two-storied miniature pagoda beside it is simply an offering, as are also the thousand small images of Kwannon in a case to the 1., and the large European mirror, in front of which is a life-like image of the abbot Zennin Shonin.

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At the back of the main altar is another, called Ura Kwannon (ura meaning "back"), which should be inspected for the sake of the modern wall-pictures on lacquer with a background of gold leaf, by artists of the Kano school. True wall-paintings, that is, paintings executed on a vertical surface, are extremely rare in Japan, the only well-authenticated examples being these at Asakusa, some on plaster in the Kondo of the ancient monastery of Horyuji near Nara, and others in the lower storey of the pagoda of Toji at Kyoto. As a rule, all so-called Japanese wall-paintings are on large sheets of paper fixed in their places after having been painted in a horizontal position.

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Above is a crowd of supernatural beings, headed by a converted dragon in the form of a beautiful

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woman, who offers a large jewel to Shaka. Two of the latter's disciples (Rakan) are at his r. foot, Monju at his 1. foot, and Fugen below on the 1. Those on the r. and 1. walls are the Twenty-eight Manifestations of Kwannon. In the grounds are several buildings of interest, and a number of icho trees whose golden foliage in autumn is in itself a sight. Behind the great temple to the 1. and facing the modern fountain, stands a small hexagonal building called Daiho-do or Jizo-do and containing a crowd of little stone images seated in tiers round a large one of Jizo. This divinity being the special protector of children parents bring the playthings of their dead little ones to his shrine.

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Beyond the Jizo-do, is the Nembutsudo, with a pretty altar. Turning r., we come to the Sanja, — a Shinto shrine dedicated to the Three Fishermen of the local legend, and having panels decorated with mythological monsters in gaudy colours. Note the bronze and stone lions in front. Passing the stage on which the Kagura dances are performed, we reach the Rinzo, or Revolving Library (see p. 45), contained in a square building with carved lions on the eaves, and then the Pagoda. Both these are now closed to the public. To the 1. of the temple buildings we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or Public Grounds, where stands the lofty tower popularly called Ju-nikai.

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This building, erected in 1890, has twelve storeys, as its name implies, is 220 ft. in height, nearly 50 ft. in internal diameter at the base, and commands a more extensive view than any other point in the city. The grounds of Asakusa are the quaintest and liveliest place in Tokyo. Here are raree-shows, penny gaffs, performing monkeys, infant prodigies, cheap photographers, jugglers, cinema shows, theatrical and other figures in painted wood and clay, an aquarium, a collection of wild animals, stalls for the sale of toys and lollypops of every sort, and, circulating amidst all these cheap attractions, a seething crowd of holiday-makers.

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Five min. drive behind the big temple, stands a small but noted one, Kinryu-zan, dedicated to the god Shoden, on a mound called Matsuchi-yama. This is a breezy spot, with a view across the river Sumida towards the cherry avenue of Mukojima. There is a ferry close by. The name Kinryu-zan, lit. " Golden Dragon Hill," comes from a legend telling how the dragon which anciently inhabited the river, climbed up to it with a lantern to keep watch over the great temple of Kwannon. Far-Eastern dragons, be it observed, almost always have some connection with water, whether river, lake, or rain-cloud.

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About 1 mile to the N. of the great Asakusa temple lies the world-famed Yoshiwara, the principal quarter inhabited by the licensed hetaerae of the metropolis. Many of the houses within this district are almost palatial in appearance, and in the evening present a spectacle probably unparalleled in any other country, but reproduced on a smaller scale in the provincial Japanese cities. The unfortunate inmates, decked out in gorgeous raiment, sit in rows with gold screens behind, and protected from the outside by iron bars.

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As the whole quarter is under special municipal surveillance, perfect order prevails, enabling the stranger to study, while walking along the streets, the manner in which the Japanese have solved one of the vexed questions of all ages. Their method, though running counter to Anglo-Saxon ideas, preserves Tokyo from the disorderly scenes that obtrude themselves on the passer-by in our western cities. Mukojima, celebrated for its avenue of cherry-trees, stretches for more than a mile along the 1. bank of the River Sumida. When

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the blossoms are out in April, Mukojima is densely packed with holiday-makers from morn till dusk, and the tea-houses on the banks and the boats on the river re-echo with music and merriment. This sight, which lasts for about a week, should on no account be missed. Various regattas are held about the same season. The little temple at the end of the avenue was raised in remembrance of a touching episode of the 10th century, which forms the subject of a famous lyric drama. Ume-waka, the child of a noble family, was carried off from Kyoto by a slave-merchant, and perished in this distant spot, where his body was found by a good priest who gave it burial.

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The next year his mother, who had roamed over the country in search of her boy, came to the place, where, under a willow-tree, the villagers were weeping over a lowly grave. On asking the name of the dead, she discovered that it was none other than her own son, who during the night appeared in ghostly form, and held converse with her ; but when day dawned, nothing remained but the waving branches of the willow, and instead of his voice only the sighing of the breeze. A commemorative service is still held on the 15th March ; and if it rains on that day, the people say that the rain-drops are Ume-waka's tears.

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A still more imposing avenue of cherry-trees, both of the single and the double variety, some 4 miles in length, extends along the 1. bank of the Arakawa (the higher reaches of the Sumida-gawa) at Kokoku-mura. A pleasant way there is by steam-launch to Senju, whence walk, or by jinrikisha, the return being made by train from Nishi-Arai (1 ri from the avenue) to Ueno. Another favourite flower resort, lying about 1 mile beyond the far end of Mukojima, is Horikiri, famed for its irises which bloom early in June. 7.— Eko-in. The Five Hundred Rakan. Kameido. District of Fukagawa. Susaki.

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Close to Ryogoku-bashi, one of the largest bridges in the metropolis spanning the River Sumida, stands the noted Buddhist temple of Eko-in. In the spring of 1657, on the occasion of a terrible conflagration which lasted for two days and nights, 107,046 persons are said to have perished in the flames. This figure is no doubt a gross exaggeration ; but whatever the number of victims may have been, the Government undertook the care of their interment, and orders were given to Danzaemon, the chief of the pariahs,* to convey the bodies to Ushijima, as this part of Yedo was then called, and dig for them a common pit.

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Priests from all the different Buddhist sects came together to recite, for the space of seven days, a thousand scrolls of the sacred books for the benefit of the souls of the departed. The grave was called Muen-zuka, or the Mound of Destitution, and the temple which was built near it is, therefore, also popularly entitled Muenji. The services for the dead (segaki) are regularly held on the 2nd and 19th days of each month.

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Eko-in being, on account of its peculiar origin, without the usual means of support derived from the gifts of the relatives of the dead, was formerly used as the place whither sacred images were brought from other provinces to be worshipped for a time by the people of Yedo, and as a scene of public performances. The latter custom still survives in the wrestling-matches which draw great crowds here every spring and winter. A new building (Koku-gi-kwan) for these matches, was erected in 1909. At Eko-in prayers are offered up daily for the souls of dead animals.

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A small fee will procure a short service and burial in the temple grounds for such domestic pets as cats, dogs, etc., a larger sum being necessary if the animal's ihai, or funeral tablet, has also to be furnished. Eko-in is a dingy edifice; and while the annual wrestling tournaments are in progress here, with the crowds shouting and the children scampering in and out, the place lacks even the semblance of sanctity. The only object worth attention is a large image of a sleeping Buddha (ne-Shaka) to the 1. of the main * In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations were to slaughter animals, tan leather, assist at executions, etc.

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The class as such is now abolished ; but remnants of its peculiar costume may still occasionally be seen in the persons of young girls with broad hats, who go about the streets playing and singing.

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altar. In a small arched enclosure behind the temple, stands the grave of the celebrated highwayman Nezumi Kozo, where incense is always kept burning. The cemetery at the back contains monuments to those who perished in the fire of 1657, and in the great earthquake of 1855. In the district of Honjo, stands the Shinto temple of Temmangu, commonly known as Kameido, from a stone tortoise covering a well in the grounds. Sugawara-no-Michizane is here worshipped under the title of Temman Daijizai, i.e., " the Perfectly Free and Heaven-Filling Heavenly Divinity." The grounds have been laid out in imitation of those at Dazaifu, his place of exile.

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Passing in through the outer gate, the eye is first attracted by the wistarias trained on trellis, whose blossoms, during the first week in May, make Kameido one of the chief show-places of the capital. They grow on the borders of a pond called Shinji no Ike, or " Pond of the Word Heart," on account of a supposed resemblance to ,jj* the Chinese character for " heart ;" and one of the amusements of visitors is to feed the carp and tortoises which it contains. A semi-circular bridge leads over the pond to a large gate in yatsu-mune-zukuri (i.e., eight-roofed) style, standing in front of the temple. Glass cases inside the gate enclose the usual large images of Zuijin.

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Bound the walls of the temple hang small pictures on a gold ground of the ancient religious dances called Bugaku. Beyond a shed to the r., containing two green and red demons bespattered with paper pellets, is an exit by which the visitor can reach the Ume-yashiki, or Plum-Garden of Kameido, 4 cho distant. Here grow the Gwaryo-bai (lit. Plum-trees of the Recumbent Dragon), which are much visited early in March, when the blossoms are all out. There are over 500 trees, all extremely old, and partly creeping along the ground, whence the name.

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Most of the cut stones which stand about the grounds are inscribed with stanzas of poetry in praise of the flowers ; and during the season, similar tributes written on paper will be seen hung up on the branches. The S.E. part of Tokyo, consisting of the district of Fukagawa on the 1. bank of the River Sumida, is a maze of narrow streets, chiefly inhabited by the lower trading and artisan classes, and offers little for the sightseer. Joshinji, though the chief temple of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is quite unpretentious ; but there are some good carvings on the gates of the priests' dwellings which line the narrow street leading up to it.

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In the court-yard is a large bronze image of Shaka supported on the shoulders of stone demons ; and at the back, beyond the cemetery, a curious superstitious practice may be witnessed at the shrine of Shogyo Bosatsu. The stone figure of the saint stands in a little wooden shed hung round with small regularly cut bundles of straw. The faithful purchase these at the gate, dip them in water, brush the image with them, and then ladle water over its head, believing that this ceremony will ensure a favourable reply to their petitions. The image is constantly wet, showing how firm the belief is.

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The Buddhist temple commonly known as Fukagawa no Fudo, in Tomioka Monzen-cho, is subsidiary to the great shrine at Narita; and in imitation of the latter the grounds are laid out in rococo style, with inscribed stone slabs and numerous bronze statuettes. It presents a lively appearance on the 1st, 15th, and 28th of each month. The adjacent Shinto temple of Hachiman, dating from A.D. 1688,

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shows traces of former Buddhist influence. The walls and ceiling are decorated with paintings of birds and flowers, and there are also some pretty wood-carvings. The ornamentation of the chancel is extremely rich, the ceiling being panelled, and gold profusely employed. Doves fly about the grounds, as is usual in temples sacred to Hachiman. They are supposed to act as this god's messengers,— strange messengers from the God of War ! The district situated between the temple of Hachiman and that of Susaki-no-Benten is noted for its trade in timber, the town being here intersected by numerous canals communicating with the river, down which come the timber-laden rafts from the inland provinces.

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The temple of Susaki no Benten dates from the latter part of the 17th century, at which time the ground on which it was erected had only recently been reclaimed. The temple itself is uninteresting ; but on a clear day there is a good view from the embankment. At low tide, which the Japanese consider the prettiest time, and especially if the season be spring, numerous pleasure boats, with singing-girls and other merry-makers, will be seen lazily floating about in the offing, watching the oyster-gatherers ply their trade. 8. — Tsukiji.

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On the way from the Shimbashi terminus to the former Foreign Concession in Tsukiji, several important modern buildings are passed:— 1. the Fifteenth Bank, r. the Imperial Department of Communications, and further on the Department of Agriculture and Commerce, a large building, one wing of which is occupied by a small but interesting Commercial Museum, open from 9 to 3 in summer, and 10 to 3 in winter. Near by stand the Seiyoken Hotel and the Kabukiza, one of the best old-style theatres in the metropolis. The Naval Academy is seen to the r. beyond the canal. Still further to the r. is the Shiba Rikyu, formerly the summer palace of the Shoguns.

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It is used once a year for an Imperial Garden party, at the season when the masses of double cherry-flowers are in bloom. The Shiba Rikyu is not open to the general public. On the way to Tsukiji stands the Nishi Hongwanji, popularly called the Tsukiji Monzeki, a huge temple belonging to the rich and powerful Monto sect. It has frequently been burnt down, last of all in 1897 ; but the main building was restored in 1901, and merits inspection for the sake of its massive hall and the symphony in gold which adorns it. Compare p. 130 for a description of the twin temple called Higashi Hongwanji. A large proportion of the European buildings in Tsukiji are devoted to religious and educational purposes.

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The most conspicuous places of worship are the Cathedral of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America and the Roman Catholic Cathedral. Beyond the river Sumida lie Ishikawa-jima and Tsuki-jima, where there are dockyards and factories. The land is gaining rapidly on the water in this district, the whole spit opposite the Bund having been reclaimed within the last five-and-thirty years. On a fine breezy day, the vessels sailing into the mouth of the river add picturesque animation to the scene.

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TOKYO AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. Scale 1:200000. A Kojimachi. B Kanda. C Nihonbashi. D Kyobashi. E Shiba. F Akasaka. G Azabu. H Yotsuya. I Ushigome. J Koishikawa. K Hongo. L Shitaya. M Asakusa. N Honjo. O Fukagawa. P Ueno. Q Shimbashi. R Tsukiji. S Imperial Palace. T Tsukudajima. For Murray's Handbook. Toyodo Engraving Office Tokyo.

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