熊野を経て伊勢へ
Through Kumano to Ise
OCR校訂済みの英文と日本語訳を、段落単位で並べて読めます。右欄では英語名の重複を抑え、日本語としての読みやすさを優先しています。
- 原資料
- pp. 372-382
- Status
- 64 translated
ROUTE 42. Through Kumano to Ise. 1. west coast of kishu. temples of hongu and shingu. rapids of the Kumano-gawa and kitayama-gawa. Doro hatcho. falls of nachi. 2 east coast of KISHU. This rough, but delightfully picturesque, route is recommended only to those whom considerable experience has inured to Japanese country ways. It might well be combined with Routes 40 and 34. The finest part of it is from Tanabe onwards, the interior of Kishu and the E. coast being on the whole more picturesque than the W. coast. The best time for the trip is spring or late autumn, as the climate of Kishu is exceptionally mild, owing chiefly to the mountains of Yamato which act as a screen to ward off northern blasts.
第42路程 熊野を経て伊勢へ。1 紀州西岸、本宮・新宮の社、熊野川・北山川の急流、瀞八丁、那智の滝。2 紀州東岸。この荒々しくも実に絵のような道は、日本の地方旅行に十分慣れた者にだけ勧められる。第40・34路程と組み合わせてもよく、田辺以南、とりわけ紀州の内陸と東岸が西岸より美しい。大和の山々が北風を防ぐため、最適期は春または晩秋である。
Kumano is practically another name for the province of Kii or Kishu, the W. part being Kuchi-Kumano, i. e. "front Kumano," and the E. part Oku-Kumano, or " far Kumano." The two together include Kuju-ku-ura, i. e. " ninety-nine stretches of shore." But the name Kumano is used with peculiar reference to the Three Holy Places {Mi-Kumano or Kumano Sanzan) of
熊野はほぼ紀伊国、すなわち紀州の別名である。西部を口熊野、東部を奥熊野といい、合わせて九十九浦、すなわち多くの入江を含む。しかし熊野の名は、歴史以前の伝説時代にさかのぼる本宮・新宮・那智の熊野三山を指して特に用いられる。
From Wakayama to Katsuura in that province, namely, Hongu, Shingu, and Nachi, the origin of which carries us back past history proper into the legendary age. Hongu, lit, "the original temple," (or "palace") is said to have been founded in the reign_of Sujin Tenno (1st century B.C.) ; Shingu, or " the new temple," in the reign of Keiko Tenno (A.D. 71 — 130), the former being some way up the Kumano-gawa, the latter at the mouth of the same river.
本宮は「もとの宮」、新宮は「新しい宮」を意味する。本宮は崇神天皇の時代、新宮は景行天皇の時代の創建と伝え、本宮は熊野川を少し遡った所、新宮はその河口にある。
Whether fear of the destructive floods for which this river is notorious, had anything to do with the location of the shrines in these particular spots — spots both of them specially likely to suffer, and therefore standing in unusual need of supernatural protection — is a matter for surmise. Be this as it may, the aboriginal Shinto tutelary deities were early adopted by the Buddhists as avatars of Indian gods, under the title of Kumano Gongen (cf. p. 16) ; and all through the Middle Ages the threefold shrines of these Gongen were among the most popular in Japan, and among the most representative of the Byobu Shinto style.
洪水で名高い熊野川に近い、被害を受けやすい場所へ社が置かれたことが、超自然的な守護を求めたためかは推測にとどまる。いずれにせよ土着の神道の守護神は早くから仏教に取り入れられ、熊野権現としてインドの神々の化身と見なされた。中世を通じて三社は日本で最も人気が高く、両部神道を代表する社であった。
The Emperor Go-Shirakawa is said to have made no less than thirty-four pilgrimages to them, or at least to Hongu. About the beginning of the 19th century, when the influence of the Pure Shinto school had begun to make itself strongly felt, many changes were effected both in the buildings themselves and in the lists of gods therein worshipped. Hongu and Shingu are now altogether in Shinto hands.
後白河天皇は、少なくとも本宮へ34回も参詣したと伝える。19世紀初め、純粋神道派の影響が強まると、社殿と祭神の名簿には多くの変更が加えられ、本宮と新宮は完全に神道の管理下に置かれた。
Nachi, besides its Shinto shrine, possesses a famous Buddhist one. — A curious and inexplicable circumstance connected with the Kumano shrines is the special reverence manifested towards them by the people of the extreme north of Japan, who supply a very large percentage of the pilgrims, and are locally nicknamed Kuantobei, that is, •' Eastern bumpkins." Itinerary. WAKAYAMA to :— JPu Kimii-dera 1 Kuroe Shiotsu 2 Yllnoshima 2 Yuasa_. 2 GOBO 5 Inami 3 Minabe 3 TANABE 2 Misu 2 Kurisu-gawa 2 Chikatsuyu 3 Nonaka Ose 2 YUNOMINE 2 Cho M. 25 ±\ 32 n — 5 32 7 1 35 n 11 13 11 8 20 8f 7 5* 3 5 18 6 9 8 29 2 31 7 18 6 HONGU 25 If Miai(byboat)\ ..4 8 10£ Tado „ *'.. 4 18- 11 Back to „ \% . . Miai „ I gi.. 4 18 11 SHINGU / ..
那智には神社のほかに名高い仏教寺院もある。熊野の社には北日本の人々が格別の崇敬を示し、巡礼者の大きな割合を占めるので、当地では関東の田舎者という意味のあだ名で呼ばれる。行程表は和歌山から紀三井寺、黒江、塩津、箕島、湯浅、御坊、南部、田辺、三栖、栗栖川、近露、野中、湯の峰、本宮へ至る道を掲げる。
5 — 12£ MwazaM 1 25 4$Hama-no-niiya 2 12 5 J NACHI.. 1 32 ±\ Back to Hama-nomiya 1 32 4| KATSUBA 23 1} Total 65 26 160.* Thence by steamer to Kinomoto, Nigishima, Owase, and Nagashima, whence overland to Yamada, as shown later on in the text. Some of the distances are approximate, though every possible care has been taken to make them correct. A constant cause of change and perplexity is introduced by the construction of new roads (shindb), not infrequently followed by the disuse of the same owing to floods or to paucity of traffic. The pedestrian will in any case gain by adherence to the old road, whenever a choice offers.
続いて本宮から舟で三井、田戸、新宮へ下り、三輪崎、浜ノ宮、那智、勝浦を経る。全行程は65里26町、160マイルとする。さらに汽船で木本、二木島、尾鷲、長島へ行き、陸路で山田へ向かう。距離は新道の建設、洪水、交通量不足による道の廃止で変わりやすいので、徒歩旅行者は選べる場合には古道を選ぶ方がよい。
We leave Wakayama by what, as a tribute to popular piety, is still called the Kumano Kaido. Jinrikishas are practicable — with an occasional walk over a hill — all the way to Tanabe and Misu. Passing below Kimii-dera (see p. 311), and Kuroe noted for its cheap lacquered trays and bowls, we skirt a lovely shore to Shiotsu, a village on the first of those little landlocked bays — secluded paradises — that gem the coast of the provinces of Kishu and Shima. The sea, the dainty little sandy beach, and the view back over Wakayama and the valley of the Kinokawa and across to Awaji and Awa in Shikoku, combine to form a delicious picture.
和歌山から、民間信仰への敬意から今も熊野街道と呼ばれる道を行く。人力車は丘で時に歩く必要があるものの、田辺と三栖までは通る。紀三井寺と安い漆器で知られる黒江を過ぎ、紀州・志摩に連なる入り江の最初、塩津へ美しい海岸をたどる。海、砂浜、和歌山と紀ノ川の谷、淡路・阿波を見渡す景は魅力的である。
[Pedestrians can save time and distance, and command still finer views, by diverging 1. over
徒歩なら塩津の手前、彦田と清水の集落の間で左へ分かれ、藤白坂を越えると、時間と距離を節約でき、さらに良い眺めも得られる。
3?4 Route 42. — through Kumano to 2se. the Fujishiro-saka before reaching Shiotsu, between the hamlets of Hikata and Shimizu.~\ Minoshima (Inn by Kawa Hatanosuke) is a cleanly town on the river Arida. Travellers should stay here rather than go on to Yuasa, which, though larger, is unattractive. Beyond Minoshima, we cross the shallow Arida-gawa near its mouth, and follow up its 1. bank for some miles along an embankment, between rows of vegetable wax- trees (haze), the characteristic tree of all this country-side. We are now in the district of Arida, notable as the greatest orange-producing centre in Japan ; and as we proceed, we find all the lower slopes of the wide sheltered valleys covered with orange-groves.
箕島は有田川沿いの清潔な町で、旅行者は大きいが魅力に乏しい湯浅よりここに泊まる方がよい。有田川河口近くを渡り、左岸の櫨並木の堤を進むと、日本最大の蜜柑産地・有田に入る。広く守られた谷の低い斜面は蜜柑畑で覆われる。
The cultivation of the orange, first introduced into this district towards the close of the 16th century from Yatsushiro in Kyushu, succeeded so admirably that, before fifty years had elapsed, not Osaka and Kyoto only, but Yedo looked to Arida for their choicest supplies. Forty varieties of the orange tribe are enumerated in Japan, the best-known being the mikan proper, or mandarin orange (of which the unshu variety is the most prized), the koji, the kunenibo (a thick-skinned variety), the tachibana, the daidai or Seville orange, and the diminutive kinkan or cumquat. Most Japanese oranges are produced on large umbrageous bushes, only the daidai growing on a real tree.
蜜柑は16世紀末に九州の八代からこの地へ伝わり、半世紀もたたぬうちに大阪・京都だけでなく江戸へも上等品を供給するようになった。日本には蜜柑類が40種あり、温州を最上とする蜜柑、コウジ、クネンボ、橘、ダイダイ、金柑などが知られる。多くは大きな茂みに実り、ダイダイだけが本当の木に育つ。
The orange is usually grafted on a citron or on a karatachi (Citrus trifoliata) stock. It is the finest fruit produced in Japan, and it figures largely in the Japanese New Year decorations. A lucky speculation in oranges was the foundation of the fortune of the eccentric 18th century millionaire, Kinokuni-ya Bunzaemon. Yuasa (Inn, Hiro-kyii) is noted for its manufacture of soy. From here to Gobo there is a choice of roads.
蜜柑は枸橘またはシトロンの台木へ接ぎ木する。日本で最良の果物で、正月飾りにも大きな役割を持つ。18世紀の奇人で富豪となった紀伊国屋文左衛門の財産も、蜜柑の投機から始まった。湯浅は醤油の製造で知られる。ここから御坊へは二つの道がある。
The new road, practicable for jinrikishas throughout, passes through Yura, 4 ri 14 cho, whence the distance is 3 ri 6 cho more, or 7 ri 20 cho (18J m.) in all; but it is rarely taken, the old 5 ri 11 cho road, given in our Itinerary, being so much shorter, and all of it, too, practicable for jinrikishas except the Shishigase-toge, a steep hill 32 cho long. Spare coolies can be hired at the bottom of this hill to help to push the empty jinrikishas up, and to shoulder the luggage. The two roads diverge from each other 26 cho beyond Yuasa.
新道は由良を経る人力車の通る道で、合計7里20町と長い。行程表に掲げる旧道は5里11町でずっと短く、32町の急な鹿ヶ瀬峠を除いて人力車も通る。峠の麓では空の車を押し上げ荷物を担ぐための助人夫を雇える。二道は湯浅の先26町で分かれる。
[Before he reaches Gobo, a detour of about 1 ri will take the traveller interested in ancient Japanese lore to the Temple of Dojoji, a building part of which dates from the 8th century. Its name has become a household word throughout the land, on account of the legend of the hapless loves of the monk Anchin and the maiden Kiyohime. Forbidden by his vows as a priest from making good his vows as a lover, he fled to this place, and hid beneath the great temple bell. She, transformed by the power of rage and disappointment into a huge dragon, pursued him, and, lashing the bell with her dragon tail, made it so fiery hot that the poor monk was scorched to death inside. This was in the year 928.
御坊の手前から約1里寄り道すると、古い日本伝説に関心をもつ旅行者は道成寺へ行ける。建物の一部は8世紀にさかのぼり、僧安珍と清姫の悲恋で全国に名を知られる。僧となった誓いゆえ恋人としての約束を果たせなかった安珍は大鐘の下へ隠れ、怒りと失望で大蛇となった清姫が追い、尾で鐘を打って熱し、彼を中で焼死させたという。928年のこととされる。
The great bell of Dojoji forms a favourite subject of art; and both the classical No theatre and the ordinary Shibai stage have pieces founded on the legend, decked out with many fanciful additions.] Gobo ( Inn, Kishi-riki ) . The road follows the coast from here, generally on a cliff overlooking the sea, and crosses several hills. The finest view is that from the top of the hill passed soon after leaving Minabe (Inn, Mori-tsune), where one catches the first glimpse of the charming bay of Tanabe, with its Megane-iwa, — a rock resembling a pair of spectacles, with holes for the glasses, — its semi-sunken reefs, and the long promontories of Setozaki and Kanayama-zaki.
道成寺の大鐘は美術の好題材で、この伝説に様々な創作を加えた作品は能と芝居の双方にある。御坊から道は大体が海を見下ろす崖上を通り、いくつもの丘を越える。南部を出て間もない丘の頂からは、眼鏡岩、半ば水没した岩礁、瀬戸崎と金山崎の長い岬を備えた田辺湾が初めて見え、最もすばらしい。
The aspect of all this coast is sub-tropical, chiefly owing to the quantities of palmettos and sotetsu. Large quantities of potatoes are also grown. The traveller will be struck all over this Kumano route with the absence of horses. Bulls and cows are used instead for agricultural purposes, the Japanese
海岸一帯にはビロウや蘇鉄が多く、亜熱帯の趣がある。馬はほとんど見ず、じゃがいもも多く栽培される。この熊野道で馬が少ないのは、日本の牡牛が欧州のものより温和で、牛を使う発想が生じにくかったためだという。
West Coast of Rishu. 3?5 bull being so much milder a beast than his European counter-part that the use of oxen has not suggested itself. The cows are free for hard labour, because their milk does not form a staple article of Japanese diet. Tanabe (Inn, Kinjo-kwan near landing-place) is much frequented by pilgrims to the Three Shrines of Kumano and to the Thirty-three Places of Kwannon. The temple of Sodoji, in the neighbourhood, possesses a number of jvorks by the celebrated painter Okyo and his pupil Bosetsu. A pleasant 2 hrs. excursion from Tanabe by boat is across the bay to the hot springs of Yuzakl (Inn, Sakai-ya), situated on the slope of a steep hill with a fine view.
雌牛も乳が日本の食生活の主食ではないため、労働に自由に使える。田辺は熊野三山と西国三十三所へ向かう巡礼者が多く通る。近くの曹洞寺には名画家・応挙と弟子の望雪の作品が数点ある。田辺湾を舟で渡る2時間の遊覧では、急な丘腹にある湯崎温泉へ行け、眺めもよい。
Tanabe is the end of the first division of this route, as we here leave the coast, and turn inland to cross mountain ranges and to shoot the rapids of rivers. Vvre also here, or at Misu 2 ri further on, bid farewell for some time to jinrikishas, unless the road to Kurisu-gawa should happen to be in exceptionally good repair. In any case, the old road is about half the distance of the new, — 2 J ri from Misu to Kurisugawa, instead of 4 ri 27 did. The walk is steep but pretty, and near the summit, which is called Imoritoge, a fine panorama opens out of numerous ranges, with Tanabe Bay and the sea beyond. The scar on the side of Takao-zan dates from the great floods of 1889.
田辺でこの路程の第一部は終わり、海岸を離れて山越えと川の急流下りに入る。ここ、または2里先の三栖で、人力車とはしばらく別れる。栗栖川への道が格別に良ければ別だが、旧道は新道の約半分、三栖から栗栖川まで2里半で、新道の4里27町より短い。イモリ峠近くでは田辺湾と海、その背後の山並みの眺望がよく、高尾山の傷跡は1889年の大洪水による。
Always liable to these visitations, Japan seems to have drawn them down on herself with increased violence by a sudden zeal for the spread of cultivation in remote mountain districts, and by consequent partial deforestation. The valley of the Totsugawa suffered worst of all, over 2,000 persons having been washed away. Many of the survivors emigrated to Yezo. Kurisu-gawa (Inn, Momiya) lies in a valley on the bank of a stream.
洪水の被害を受けやすい日本は、奥地の急な開墾とそれに伴う森林伐採によって、災害を一層激しく招いたように見える。十津川の谷は最もひどく、二千人以上が流され、生存者の多くは蝦夷地へ移住した。栗栖川は谷の小流れの岸にある宿場である。
Leaving it, we climb over the Hijo-toge and Osaka-toge, — a maze of thickly wooded mountains the whole way, peak alternating with round shoulder, — to Chikatsuyu (Inn, Yamaguchiya), similarly situated in a valley, — that of the Heki-gawa, — and thence on to Nonaka (Inn, Matsu-ya), which stands high, a great cleft dividing it from still loftier hills that rise abruptly opposite. There are some monumental cryptomerias at the entrance to the village; and on leaving it, the traveller will notice the first of a series of stockades and outlooks, by which the peasants endeavour to protect their little patches of cultivation from the attacks of wild boar.
栗栖川を出ると、濃い森林に覆われた山々の迷路であるヒジョウ峠・大阪峠を越え、日置川の谷にある近露へ至る。さらに高い野中へ進むと、深い裂け目を隔ててさらに高い山が急に立つ。村の入口には記念的な杉があり、出ると猪から小さな畑を守るための獣垣と見張り場が初めて現れる。
Many other wild animals roam at will over this remote forest region of Kishu and southern Yamato, notably the wolf, the monkey, the deer, and the niku, which latter seems to be a kind of chamois. Two hills — the Kobiro-toge and Buju-toge — separate Nonaka from Yunomine.
紀州のこの奥地と大和南部の森林には、狼、猿、鹿、カモシカの一種とされるニクなど、多くの野生動物が自由に歩き回る。野中と湯の峰の間には小広峠とブジュウ峠の二つの丘がある。
The walk unfolds a succession of delightful contrasts, — the lovely glen of the Hiraigogawa, with its wild profusion of cherry-trees, azaleas, maples, camellias, lagerstroemias (saru-suberi), ferns, mosses, etc., offering bright hues for every season of the year ; — next the panorama from the breezy top of the Buju-toge over a wilderness of densely wooded mountains and deep ravines ; and then the descent through the severe simplicity of a forest of nothing but conifers, where, after a time, one catches the sound of rushing water, and sees far below the Magari-kawa aptly so called from its many windings.
歩く道では、桜、躑躅、楓、椿、百日紅、羊歯、苔などが季節ごとに色彩を見せる平井郷川の谷、ブジュウ峠の風の通る頂からの森林と深い渓谷、そして針葉樹だけの厳しい森へと景色が変わる。やがて水音が聞こえ、多くの曲がりをもつため曲川と呼ばれる川をはるか下に見る。
But the curious part of the matter is that the Magari-kawa and the Hirai-go-gawa form in reality but one and the same valley, the upper part of which is dowered with botanical wealth, while the lower appears stern in its simplicity. Yunomine (Inns, Ise-ya and several others) is the most comfortable village on the route, — far preferable to Hongu, 25 cho further
曲川と平井郷川は実は同じ谷で、上流部は植物に富み、下流は厳しい単純さを見せる。湯の峰は伊勢屋ほかの宿があり、道中で最も快適な村で、25町先の本宮より宿泊地としてはるかに優れる。
5?6 Route &%.—ihrough Eumano to ts$. on, as a place to spend the night. The slight odour of the sulphur springs to which Yunomine owes its fame, is perceptible immediately on entering the place. The principal spring gushes out in mid-village, just above the river's edge, and the women carry their vegetables to cook in it. The original temperature of the spring utilised for the public bath is 198° Fahrenheit. Hard by is a little temple dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai,whose large image is cut out of stone encrusted with sulphur. The people bring teapots to get them encrusted in like manner. The local hero is Oguri Hangwan (see p. 82).
湯の峰に入ると、名の由来である硫黄泉の匂いがすぐ分かる。主な源泉は村の中央、川岸のすぐ上で湧き、女たちは野菜を煮るためそこへ運ぶ。公衆浴場に使う湯は華氏198度で、近くには硫黄が付着した石造の大きな薬師如来を祀る小寺がある。人々は茶壺にも同じ硫黄を付けようと持参する。この地の英雄は小栗判官である。
On the way from Yunomine to Hongu is a mound called Kuruma-zaka, beneath which, on being restored to health and strength, Oguri Hangwan is said to have buried the barrow used by Terute Hime to wheel him hither. The best plan to pursue is to leave one's luggage at Yunomine, and stroll over thence to Hongu to see the temples, returning to Yunomine to sleep. The Yunomine innkeepers are accustomed to make arrangements for boats down the river, and will have one in waiting for the traveller on the following morning.
湯の峰から本宮への道には車坂という塚があり、小栗判官が回復した時、照手姫にここまで運ばれた車を埋めた所と伝える。荷物は湯の峰に置き、本宮の社を見に歩いて湯の峰へ戻り泊まるのがよい。宿主は川下りの舟も手配し、翌朝には旅行者を待つ舟を用意する。
A cheap public boat (here called josen) starts from Hongu for Shingu at a very uncertain time in the forenoon, and takes about 6 hrs. to perform the journey, except in flood- time, when the voyage is much quicker, but dangerous. To take the public boat, however, debars one from visiting Doro Hatcho ; so every well-advised traveller will engage a boat of his own (kai-kiri). The price is 4 yen for a boat with three men to go down the rapids from Hongu to Miai, thence up the Kitayama-gawa to Doro Hatcho, and down to Shingu : —time, 2 days. Hongu [Inn, Tama-ya) stands at the junction of a streamlet called the Otonashi-gawa with the broad Kumano-gawa.
本宮から新宮への定期舟は午前の不定な時刻に出て約6時間かかるが、増水時は速い代わりに危険である。定期舟では瀞八丁へ寄れないので、賢明な旅行者は貸切舟を雇う。本宮から三井へ急流を下り、北山川を瀞八丁まで遡り、新宮へ下る三人乗りの舟は4円、2日を要する。本宮は音無川と幅広い熊野川の合流点にある。
Though now but a poor village, it boasts a celebrated Shinto shrine. For what little is Imown of the early history of this place, see p. 373. In the great floods of 1889 the river rose 60 ft. and the entire village was destroyed, the temple buildings themselves, which stood close to the water's edge, being mostly swept away. Out of twelve, only four remained available for restoration and repair; and notwithstanding the immemorial sanctity of their previous site, they were removed to the neighbouring hill, where they now occupy a commanding and perfectly safe position.
本宮は今では貧しい村だが、名高い神社を誇る。1889年の大洪水では川が60フィート上がって村全体が壊滅し、水辺の社殿も大半が流された。十二社のうち復旧できたのは四社だけで、古来の聖地を離れて隣の丘の安全で見晴らしのよい場所へ移された。
A stone monument on the original site, consisting of two small coffer-shaped structures within an enclosure, commemorates the eight vanished temples and their gods. The chief festival at Hongu is celebrated on the 15th April, smaller ones on the 1st and 15th of every month. One of the peculiar rites is the pounding of ricecakes {mochi) by the pilgrim bands, as an offering to the local gods. For this purpose, gigantic pestles and mortars are provided at all the inns. Temples 1 and 2 are combined under a single roof, in what is called the ni-sha-zukuri style. A peculiar appearance is produced by the tawny-coloured suji-bei (see p. 84) and the low stone wall, which together form the outer temple enclosure.
元の社地には、囲いの中に小さな柩形の建物を二つ置く石碑があり、失われた八社とその神を記念する。本宮の大祭は4月15日、小祭は毎月1日と15日である。巡礼団が土地の神への供えとして餅を搗くのも特色で、そのための巨大な杵と臼が全宿に備わる。一・二社は二社造の一屋根に収まり、黄褐色の筋塀と低い石垣が外郭をつくる。
Otherwise Hongu much resembles Ise, though on a smaller scale. Visitors are permitted to enter the pebble-strewn court inside the wall, but may not pass beyond the tama-gaki, which is of wood with gilt copper ornaments to conceal the nail-heads. The ends of the rafters of the temples are similarly adorned. A flock of crows forms a prominent feature in the o-fuda, or sacred pictures, sold at the three Kumano shrines, and also in the architectural ornaments of many subsidiary temples dedicated to the gods of Kumano, for instance, that situated in Iigura, Tokyo. The reason is that these deities are believed to employ the crow as their messenger, wherefore also this bird is never killed within their precincts.
本宮は小規模ながら他の点では伊勢によく似る。参拝者は砂利を敷いた内側の庭へは入れるが、金色の銅金具で釘頭を隠した木の玉垣より内側へは進めない。熊野三山の御札や熊野神を祀る末社の建築には烏が目立つ。神々が烏を使者にするという信仰があり、境内では烏を殺さない。
There is a current belief to the effect that Koya-san is so precipitous that such luxuries as bean-curd (tofu) cannot be carried up to it, but that the priests place coppers on the temple balustrade, with which the crows fly off to Kumano and bring back bean- curd in return. The boat trip down the Rapids of the Kumano-gawa
高野山はあまりに険しく、豆腐のような贅沢品は運び上げられないという俗信がある。しかし僧たちは寺の欄干に銭を置き、烏が熊野へ飛んで豆腐を買い、持ち帰るのだという。本宮から始まる熊野川急流の舟旅は格別である。
This river rises in the mountains of Yoshino. During its upper course it is called the Totsugawa. Sometimes also it is called Otonase-gawa or Otonashi-gawa, properly the name of the tiny affluent that comes in at Hongu. is delightful, excitement constantly alternating with charming views of cliff, and azalea blossom, and splendid timber. The whole distance from Hongu to Shingu is called 9 ri 8 cho (ku-ri hat-cho, not to be confounded with the name of Doro Hat cho) ; but of course this is considerably increased by diverging up the Kitayama-gawa to see the latter place.
熊野川は吉野の山々に発し、上流では十津川と呼ばれる。時に音無川とも呼ばれるが、本来は本宮で合流する小支流の名である。本宮から新宮までを九里八町といい、瀞八丁を見るため北山川へ寄り道すると距離はさらに増す。舟は急流、崖、躑躅の花、見事な材木の景を交互に楽しませる。
Specially celebrated is a spot on the 1. bank, about 1 hr. down from Hongu, called Shimoku-zan, whither Japanese painters often come to sketch the perpendicular basaltic cliffs crowned with fantastic pines, — a scene that lacks only some quaint pagoda on the least accessible crag to make it the perfect embodiment of the style of landscape which the Far-Eastern artist most loves to reproduce on screen, and porcelain plate, and lacquer tray. To complete the illusion, monkeys may sometimes be seen clinging to the overhanging branches of the trees. Just above and about Miai (Inn, Hana-no-jo) coal is worked in three or four places, but is of poor quality.
本宮から約一時間下った左岸にはシモク山があり、日本の画家が、奇妙な松を載せた垂直の玄武岩の崖を写生に来る。近寄りにくい岩に古風な塔でもあれば、屏風、陶器、漆器に描かれる東アジアの理想的山水画そのものになる。猿が枝にぶら下がることもある。三井のすぐ上と付近では石炭を掘るが、質は悪い。
Here is the junction of the Kumano-gawa with its large affluent, the Kitayama-gawa, a sight recalling that of the meeting of the Rhone and Saone. Y>'hile the Kitayama-gawa is of crystalline clearness, the Kumano-gawa has run thick and muddy ever since the floods of 1889. For some little distance, the two streams flow on side by side without mingling. The ascent of the Kitayamagawa from Miai involves towing up another set of rapids, varied by occasional sailing ; for if there be any wind at all, it is sure to serve from time to time, owing to the deep elbow-bends made by the stream.
ここは熊野川と大支流・北山川の合流点で、ローヌ川とソーヌ川の合流を思わせる。北山川は水晶のように澄むが、熊野川は1889年の洪水以来濁っており、しばらく二流は混じらず並んで流れる。三井から北山川を遡るにはもう一組の急流を曳き上げる必要があり、深く曲がる川筋ゆえ風があれば時おり帆走もできる。
Though progress be slow — about 7 hrs. from Miai to Tado, — the time is agreeably spent drinking in the charms of the scenery, and watching the skilfully navigated rafts that carry timber to the coast, or the fishermen who, generally in bands of four on each reach of the river, peer into the water for trout, and when they see any, cast hand-nets over them with amazing rapidity. The names of the hamlets on each bank on the way up are: — Miai r., Shitaki 1., Kei r., Kuji r., Taketo r., Yunokuchi r., Kogawa-guchi 1. where an affluent comes in ; Shimazu r., Kizuro 1., Tamai-guchi r., and Tado r. All are poor.
三井から田戸まで約7時間と進みは遅いが、景色を眺め、海岸へ材木を運ぶ巧みに操る筏、四人組で鱒を見つけると素早く手網を投げる漁師を見る時間は楽しい。遡る途中の両岸には三井、下滝、ケイ、クジ、武人、湯ノ口、小川口、島津、木津呂、玉井口、田戸などの貧しい集落が続く。
Many are remarkable for being built tier above tier up the face of the mountain, with stone terraces to keep what little soil there is in place. At Kuju, a little waterfall will be noticed. [This hamlet is the starting-point of those who desire to climb Tamaki-san (3 ri), a mountain noted for its enormous cryptomerias and for a temple dedicated to the gods of Kumano, which is considered the Okuno-in of Hongu. The summit (3,750 ft.) commands a view over a sea of mountains.] Kizuro and Tado being the only hamlets on the Kitayama-gawa possessing houses dignified with the name of inn, one or other of them should be selected for the night's halt. The former is about 1 ri below Doro Hatcho, the latter just above it.
多くの集落は僅かな土を保つ石段を設け、山腹に幾層にも建つ。クジには小さな滝がある。ここは巨大な杉と熊野神の社で知られ、本宮の奥の院とされる玉置山へ登る出発点でもある。木津呂と田戸だけが宿と呼べる家を持ち、前者は瀞八丁の約1里下、後者はすぐ上にあるので、どちらかを夜の宿に選ぶ。
If possible, the latter should be pushed on to, as one thus gains the advantage of seeing Doro Hatcho in the strongly contrasting lights of evening and morning. Doro Hatcho is a gorge of the Kitayama-gawa, stretching between the hamlets of Tamai-guchi and Tado. The name does not mean, as might be supposed, "eight hundred yards of mud," but " eight hundred
できれば田戸まで進む方がよい。瀞八丁を夕方と朝という強く対照的な光で見られるからである。瀞八丁は玉井口と田戸の間に延びる北山川の峡谷で、名は八百ヤードの泥ではなく、静かな水面が八百ヤード続くことを意味する。
yards of tranquil water," with rapids below and rapids above ; and in reality the gorge is double that length, — not 8 cho, but 16 cho.
ただし実際の峡谷はその二倍の長さで、8町ではなく16町ある。上下には急流がある。
Deep green pellucid water, fairy vegetation,— especially in May and June when the azaleas and rhododendrons burst into bloom from every nook and cranny, — dainty little sandy beaches, coves, pinnacles, caves, on either side white battlements of rock of a fine-grained siliceous sandstone, curiously jointed and worked in together somewhat like the teeth in a jaw or the pieces of a puzzle, and forming pillars and overhanging stockades crowned with pines and reflected in the liquid mirror below, — all this combines to form a perfect specimen of natural landscape-gardening on a grand scale.
深緑で澄んだ水、5・6月に躑躅と石楠花が隙間ごとに咲く草木、小さな砂浜、入り江、尖塔、洞窟、細粒の珪質砂岩から成る白い城壁のような岩、松を頂く柱や張り出す柵、それらを映す水鏡が、壮大な自然の庭園をつくる。岩は顎の歯や組み木のようにかみ合い、特に奇妙である。
When seen in the mists of early dawn or by moonlight, it is the very image of the haunts of the genii as pourtrayed by the artists of China and Japan. Names are given to various salient rocks, such as the Boat, the Hat, the gods Ebisu and Daikoku, etc. ; but they have no special appropriateness, and there is little use in taking a guide at Kizuro or Tamaiguchi to point them out, as the natives will probably suggest. The scenery continues very fine for several miles above Doro Hatcho, more especially at a place called Oi, 5 ri higher up ; but boats cannot ascend further than Komatsu, whence it is an arduous walk of 8 J miles. [Doro Hatcho may also be reached from Atawa, a vill.
早朝の霧や月明かりで見ると、中国・日本の画家が描く仙人の住みかそのものに見える。舟、帽子、恵比寿、大黒など目立つ岩に名が付くが、特別に似ているわけではないので、木津呂や玉井口で案内人を雇う必要は少ない。瀞八丁の上流数マイル、オイという所までは景色が続くが、舟は小松より上へ遡れず、そこから8マイル半の難しい徒歩となる。
2 ri 25 cho N.E. of Shingu on the coast, whence 6 ri to Kogawaguchi, where boats can be obtained. From Atawa to Kogawa-guchi the road leads over the Fuden-zaka, and through Nakadachi and other villages. The whole distance from Shingu to Kogawa-guchi may be done in jinrikisha.] From Doro Hatcho back to Miai and thence to Shingu is a short day's journey by boat, being all down stream. Rapids and pretty scenery accompany one the whole way, until suddenly there appears ahead a square-topped wooded height, lower than the other hills. This is where stood the Castle of Shingu, now demolished. To the r. is seen a grove of tall cryptomerias, marking the site of the temple of the gods of Kumano.
瀞八丁は海岸の新宮北東にある阿田和からも行ける。阿田和から小川口までは筆坂を越え中立などの村を通り、小川口で舟を得る。新宮から小川口までは人力車でも行ける。瀞八丁から三井へ戻り新宮へ下る舟旅は短い一日で、急流と美景が続いた後、前方に他の丘より低い平らな頂の森が現れる。これが今は廃された新宮城で、右手の高い杉林は熊野神の社地を示す。
The Kumano-gawa, like several other rivers on this coast, ends in an anomalous fashion, there being no mouth to it at all except during the summer floods, because the water oozes out to sea through the sand. Nevertheless, the current is rapid to the last. Shingu (Inn, *Abura-ya), which lives chiefly by the trade in timber brought down the river, has little to detain the traveller. The castle site should be visited for the sake of the fine view. The Shrines of Kumano (commonly called Shingu Gongen) were burnt down in 1883, and only three out of the former twelve shrines have been rebuilt.
熊野川は夏の洪水時を除き、砂を通して水が海へしみ出すため、河口らしい河口を持たないという異様な終わり方をする。それでも最後まで流れは速い。材木の川下げで成り立つ新宮には旅行者を留めるものは少ないが、城跡からの眺めはよい。熊野権現の社は1883年に焼失し、以前の十二社のうち三社だけが再建された。
Of the Shinto Temple of Kamino-kura, dedicated to the goblin (tengu) Takagami, there likewise remains little but the site ; and the Grave of Shin-no-Jofuku will interest only the archaeologist. What little there is to see at Shingu can all be seen in 3 hours. At the temple of Kami-no-kura, which is perched on the top of a high rock, the male inhabitants of the town still celebrate an ancient and curious festival (Taimatsu Matsuri) on the 5th day of the 1st moon, old style.
天狗・高神を祀る神倉神社も跡地を残すだけで、秦の徐福の墓は考古学者以外には興味が薄い。新宮の見所は三時間で見終えられる。高い岩上の神倉社では旧暦一月五日、町の男たちが今も松明祭という古い奇祭を行う。
A large number, young and old, some of them fathers with children strapped to their backs, and all with torches in their hands, run up the steep, irregular flight of steps leading to the temple site, and on reaching the top, are shut up in a narrow enclosure, packed as tight as they can hold, by another band of holiday-makers outside. Suddenly the gate is opened, and down they all rush helter-skelter, as fast as their legs can carry them, still with the lighted torches in their hands; and in feudal days, he who reached the bottom first
老若の多くが松明を持ち、子を背負う父親も交じって、社地へ上がる急で不規則な石段を駆け上がる。頂では外の一団により狭い囲いへ詰め込まれ、突然門が開くと、火のついた松明を持ったまま全員がなだれのように駆け下りる。封建時代には最初に下へ着いた者へ城主から米一袋が与えられた。
received a bag of rice as a reward from the lord of the castle. It is averred that accidents never happen, notwithstanding the steepness of the steps, the flaming torches, and the hurry and confusion. Nevertheless, to obviate such a possibility and also to cheer on the runners, their relatives line the staircase on either side. — The hill above the temple site is supposed to be the goblin's playground. Shin-no-Jofuku (the Chinese pronunciation of his name is Ch'in Hsu Fu), having been sent by the Emperor Shi Huang Ti (B.C.
石段の急さ、燃える松明、混乱にもかかわらず事故は起きないと伝えるが、危険を避け走者を励ますため、親族は石段の両側に並ぶ。社地の上の丘は天狗の遊び場とされる。中国の徐福は始皇帝に不老不死の薬を探すよう遣わされ、蓬莱山、すなわち日本を見つけ、三千人の美男美女とともに植民したという。中国で広く信じられたこの伝説は、日本民族の起源だとする。
269-221) to search for the elixir of life, is said to have discovered Elysium (Horai-zan), alias Japan, which he colonised with three thousand beautiful young men and maidens. Such, according to a legend widely credited in China, was the origin of the Japanese nation. The present stone dates only from the middle of the 17th century. Some small mounds in the neighbourhood are alleged to be the tombs of his followers. In all this part of Japan both sexes smoke tobacco rolled up in camellia leaves, the effect produced being that of the stump end of a green cheroot. Bundles of leaves for this purpose are sold in the Shingu shops for an infinitesimal sum. The birthplace of the celebrated Benkei (p.
現在の徐福碑は17世紀半ばのものにすぎず、近くの小さな塚を従者の墓とする。この地方では男女とも椿の葉で巻いた煙草を吸い、緑色の葉巻の吸い殻のように見える。葉の束は新宮の店でごく安く売られる。弁慶の生地は新宮のすぐ上、町を出ると左に通る船田の渡しにあった。
71) was at the Funada ferry just above Shingu, which is passed 1. on quitting the town. The road from Shingu to Nachi, all of which, except the last ri, is practicable for jinrikishas, offers a succession of varied views. Specially delightful are those of the Bays of Miwazaki (Inn, Onoya) and Ugui.
新宮から那智への道は最後の1里を除き人力車が通り、変化に富む眺めが続く。とりわけ三輪崎とウグイの湾の景色が楽しい。
At Miwazaki and all along the coast to the E, where bonito-fishing is one of the sources of livelihood, the boats will be seen painted in bright colours, with patterns of flowers and the auspicious character signifying " long life." This is done in order to attract that fish, which is believed to be highly aesthetic and fastidious in its tastes. — It is the beach between Shingu and Nachi that provides the checker-players of Japan with their best go-ishi— water worn pebbles of slate quartzite which serve as " men." At Haiivi-no-miya, the road turns inland.
三輪崎から東の海岸では鰹漁が生計の一つで、舟は鮮やかな色に花模様と長寿を意味する吉祥字を描いている。美意識が高く好みのうるさいと信じられた鰹を引き寄せるためである。新宮・那智間の浜では、水で磨かれた粘板岩質石英岩の小石が、碁の駒である碁石の最上品になる。浜ノ宮で道は内陸へ曲がる。
Jinrikishas can be left to await the traveller's return at the hamlet of Iseki, as Nachi may be " done " in a few hours, though it well deserves at least a day, and there is good accommodation at the Shiozaki inn, near the temples, and overlooking the waterfall. The approach is by a large torii, and several flights of stone steps lined with magnificent cryptomerias. The height of the place, the luxuriant vegetation, and the nearness to so much running water, make Nachi a delightful summer retreat. Remark that, in its wider acceptation, Nachi includes Iseki and several other hamlets, as far as Hama-no-Miya on the sea-shore.
那智は数時間で見られるので、人力車は伊関の集落で帰りを待たせてもよい。ただし少なくとも一日は費やす価値があり、社寺近くで滝を見下ろす潮崎の宿はよい。大鳥居と立派な杉に囲まれた何段もの石段が入口となる。高所、豊かな植生、豊富な流れ水が、那智を快い夏の避暑地にしている。広い意味の那智は海辺の浜ノ宮までの伊関ほかの集落を含む。
We use the name in its narrower sense, to designate the village in the hills which is famed for its temples and waterfalls. The very popular Buddhist Temple of Nachi, No. 1 of the Thirty-three Places Sacred to Kwannon, dates — at least the present building dates — from the year 1590. It is filled with ex-votos and miscellaneous adornments, its columns are pasted over with pilgrims' cards, and priests sit at little tables to sell staves and charms of more than usual variety. The Temple of Kumano, which stands close by, is in pure Shinto style. It was rebuilt early in the last reign, and is dedicated to Kumano Fusumi, Izanagi, Izanami, Kuni-toko-tachi, Ama-terasu, and a number of lesser divinities.
ここでは社寺と滝で名高い山中の村を狭い意味で那智と呼ぶ。非常に人気のある那智の仏教寺院は西国三十三所第1番で、現在の建物は1590年のもの。奉納物や雑多な飾りで満ち、柱には巡礼者の名刺が貼られ、僧は杖や多様な護符を売る。隣の熊野神社は純粋な神道様式で、前代の初めに再建され、熊野夫須美、伊邪那岐、伊邪那美、国常立、天照などを祀る。
But the great attraction of Nachi lies in its Waterfalls, one of which (275 ft.) is generally accounted the highest in Japan. Tradition says that the Buddhist saint, Mongaku Shonin (p. 80) remained three weeks in the water just below the basin of this fall, fasting and doing penance. The Great, or First Fall (Ichi no Taki), which is close to the vill., is easily accessible. An exploration of the lesser, but romantically situated, Second and Third Falls (Ni no Taki and San no Taki), higher up the course of the same stream, involves some scrambling over the slippery rocks that serve as natural stepping-stones. Rare
那智最大の見所は滝で、その一つは高さ275フィート、日本一高いと一般に考えられる。文覚上人はこの滝壺のすぐ下で、断食と苦行をしながら三週間水中に留まったと伝える。村に近い大滝、すなわち一の滝へは容易に行ける。同じ流れの上流にある、より小さいが風情のある二の滝・三の滝を探るには、自然の飛石となる滑りやすい岩をよじ登らねばならない。
380 Route 4£.— Through Kumano to isd ferns and mosses luxuriate on every side. Beyond this, higher up the mountain again, are numerous smaller cascades. On the opposite side of the Nachi valley, another stream forms a fall named In-yo no Taki, or " Sexual Fall ", on account of the shape of a large rock in the centre. Katsura (Inn, Kaigetsu) possesses an ideal little harbour, perfectly landlocked owing to an island at its mouth, and so deep that steamers can anchor close to the shore. Ten min. across the little bay by boat are the hot springs of Akajima. The principal local industry is fishing.
周囲には珍しい羊歯と苔が茂り、さらに山を上がると小滝が数多い。那智谷の反対側では別の流れが、中央の大岩の形から陰陽の滝と呼ばれる滝をつくる。勝浦には島が入口を守る完全な天然の小港があり、汽船は岸近くに停泊できる。小湾を舟で10分渡ると赤島温泉で、主な産業は漁業である。
The best plan — granting that the traveller is blessed with an even temper, which will stand the possible and seemingly unreasonable lengthening out of a single day's voyage into three or four — is to take one of the coasting steamers that touch at Katsura almost daily. He can thus see most advantageously what is best in Kishu, — its delightful coast scenery, — and will be spared dreadful roads and an almost endless amount of climbing. [It is only as far as Kinomoto, where also steamers can be picked up, that the land journey can be done with any comfort. The Itinerary is as follows : — KATSUURAto:— Ri Cho M.
忍耐強い旅行者には、ほぼ毎日勝浦へ寄港する沿岸汽船に乗るのが最良である。一日の航海が理由なく三、四日に延びることもあるが、紀州の最上の魅力である海岸景観を有利に見られ、ひどい道と際限ない登りを避けられる。陸路を快適に行けるのは、汽船にも乗れる木本までである。
Shingu 4 24 11J Narukawa ferry 6 ^ Atawa 2 19 6J Kinomoto 3 17 8 J Total 10 30 26J All this is level and passable for jinrikishas, much of it lying through a pleasant pine- wood that skirts the sea-shore. From Kinomoto, it is possible to reach Owase in one day (11 J ri through densely wooded valleys and mountains, with magnificent views from the Yanagawatoge), and Nagashima (7 ri ol alternate inland and sea road) in another.
勝浦から新宮、鳴川の渡し、阿田和、木本までの行程は10里30町、26マイル半。全て平坦で人力車が通り、多くは海辺に沿う心地よい松林を抜ける。木本から尾鷲へは深い森林の谷と山を11里半、柳ヶ峠から見事な眺めを得て一日で行け、長島へも内陸・海岸道を交互に7里で一日を要する。
But one must be a very sturdy pedestrian and be favoured with fine weather, the climb over the Obiki-zaka ■ — lit. " the Hill of Long-Drawn-Outness" — and well does it deserve the name, — the hills quaintly called Sonetaro and Sonejiro, the Yaki-yama-toge, the Magose-zaka, the Hajikamizaka, and other rough passes being most fatiguing.] 2. — Chief Places on the E. Coast. The whole coast line is wonderfully picturesque, with bays, peninsulas, and fantastic rocks. Kinomoto (Inn, Morimoto) has only an open roadstead. The cliffs here are remarkably honeycombed, — blistered, as it were. These on the right-hand side of the town (looking from the sea) are called Oni-ga-jo, or the Demons' Castle.
ただし健脚で晴天に恵まれなければならない。大曳坂、惣太郎・惣次郎という奇妙な名の丘、焼山峠、馬越坂、ハジカミ坂ほかの荒い峠は非常に疲れる。2 紀伊東岸の主な場所。この海岸線は湾、半島、奇岩に富み、ことのほか絵のようである。木本は開放的な泊地しか持たないが、町の右側の蜂の巣状の崖は鬼ヶ城と呼ばれる。
This name they derive from the belief that they were the abode of demons, till the latter were subdued by Tamura Maro early in the 9th century— The syllable M, one meaning of which, in the Japanese pronunciation of the Chinese characters, is "demon" J^ recurs in many of the place-names about here. Thus we have kinomoto, M^ishima, Mi&isato, YaH; and local legend has fabricated somethingappropriate to fit each.
鬼ヶ城の名は、9世紀初めに田村麻呂が退治するまで鬼の住みかだったという信仰による。このあたりの地名には「鬼」を意味する読みのキが繰り返され、木本、二木島、三木里、矢木などにも土地の伝説が付け加えられている。
In reality the hi means "tree" in most of these names, — Mikizato, for instance, signifying "the village of three trees," not " the village of three demons." The high cliffs on the 1. of the town, beneath which the creatress Izanami is said to lie buried, is called Hana no Iwaya, A straw rope (called shime-nawa) is stretched from the summit of this cliff to the trunk of a pine-tree below. This is renewed every year in February and October with great festivities, when enormous quantities of flowers are offered up, whence the name of the rock.
実際にはこれらの名のキの多くは木を意味し、三木里は三つの木の村であって三人の鬼の村ではない。町の左手の高い崖は、女神伊邪那美が葬られたと伝える花の窟である。崖の頂から下の松の幹へ注連縄が張られ、2月と10月には大量の花を供えて盛大に新しく掛け替える。岩の名もそこから来る。
At another festival, in July, a circular pile of firewood is built up to a height of 20 or 25 ft., and the youths of the village try their skill in throwing a lighted torch to
7月の別の祭では、高さ20から25フィートの薪を円く積み、村の若者が火のついた松明を投げて頂に火を付けようとする。
the top, so as to kindle the pile. This is apparently done in honour of Kagutsuchi, the God 'of Fire or of Summer Heat, whose sepulchre is said to_ be under a small rock opposite, called Oji no Iwaya, or the Prince's Cavern. iN'ig-isliima (Inn, Jubei) is a completely landlocked, pretty little harbour with deep anchorage. The hills, which rise round it in a circle, are cultivated in terraces. Sone and Mikizato also have landlocked bays. The camphor-tree and vegetable wax-tree grow wild on the steep hills of this part of the coast, where cultivation can only be carried on in terraces supported by retaining walls.
これは火または夏の暑さの神・火之迦具土を祀る行事らしく、その墓は向かいの小岩、王子の岩屋の下にあるという。二木島は深い停泊地を持つ、完全に陸に囲まれた可愛らしい港である。円く囲む丘は段畑となり、二木島・三木里にも閉じた湾がある。樟と櫨が急な丘に自生し、耕作は石垣で支えた段畑でしかできない。
At Owase (Inn, Atarashi-ya), the hills retire to a little distance, like wings on either side of the spacious bay. Owase is a populous junkport, and the most flourishing place on all this coast. Nagashima (Inn, Hama-no-Arashi-ya) has but a poor harbour. The entrance, however, is very pretty, with the broken line of Oshima to the r., like a hand halfsunk beneath the water and only the finger-tips appearing. The inhabitants devote themselves to catching bonitos, which they dry and salt for export. — The aspect of the coast is broken and picturesque all the way on hence to the province of Shima, and round the latter towards Ise ; but the densely wooded hills gradually sink in height.
尾鷲では丘が翼のように広い湾の両側へ少し退き、人口の多い帆船港で、この海岸で最も栄える町となる。長島の港は貧弱だが、右に半ば水に沈んで指先だけを出す手のような大島の切れた線を望む入口は美しい。住民は鰹を捕り、干して塩漬けにし輸出する。志摩を回り伊勢へ向かう海岸も景勝地だが、森深い丘は次第に低くなる。
The interior being again practicable from Nagashima onwards, we here leave the steamer, and strike across country in a N.E. direction. Itinerary. NAGASHIMA to:— Hi Oho M. Uchi-Mayumi 3 8 7§ Nojiri 4 17 11 Mise 1—2^ Kuryu 1 26 d| Oka village 4 11 10* „ station 31 2 Total 15 21 38 First we cross the rather steep Nizaka-tbge, which a fine road makes passable for jinrikishas. From points on the ascent, lovely vignettes are obtained of mountains all the way from Odai-ga-hara to the sea, and of the much indented coast as far as Miwazaki. The town and bay of Nagashima lie just below, with the inlet called Katakami-no-ike, and the gravelly riverbed of the Sando-gawa.
長島から再び内陸へ入れるので、ここで汽船を離れ北東へ横断する。行程表は内真弓、野尻、三瀬、久留、岡村・岡駅を経て計15里21町、38マイル。最初にやや急な荷坂峠を越えるが、よい道で人力車も通る。登りからは大台ヶ原から海までの山々、三輪崎まで刻み込まれた海岸、足元の長島と湾、片上の池、三渡川の砂利河原を望む。
At the top of this pass the traveller leaves the province of Kishu, Kishu, originally Ki-no-kuni, the "Country of Trees," is the ancient seat of the cult of Susa-no-o (see p. 54) and his son Iso-takeru. The former is said to have brought the seeds of trees from Korea, and to have planted Japan with them ; and as this region was celebrated for its timber, the seat of his worship was naturally established here. and enters the province of Ise. The descent on the other side is gradual and the scenery pleasing, being spoilt only by partial deforestation. The stream followed is an affluent of the Miyagawa, called Ouchi-yama-gawa. The best halting-place is the vill. of Saki (Inn, K5zaki-ya), a short way beyond Mayumi.
峠の頂で紀州を離れ伊勢国へ入る。紀州は元来、木の国といい、素戔嗚尊とその子・五十猛神の信仰の古い中心である。素戔嗚尊は朝鮮から樹木の種を持ち帰り日本を植樹したと伝え、この地方が材木で名高かったため、その祭祀の地となった。下りは緩やかで景色もよいが、部分的な森林伐採が損なう。道は大内山川という宮川の支流に沿い、真弓の少し先の崎が最良の宿泊地である。
Nojiri (Inns, Hashimoto-ya, Nishimura-ya), though scarcely known to the outer world, is much frequented by pious pilgrims, as it possesses a set of Shintd temples called Takihara Gu, which, notwithstanding their small size, yield but little in sanctity to those of Yamada (commonly known as the shrines of Ise) themselves. They stand in a solemn and impressive grove of cryptomeria and chamaecyparis. As at Yamada, so here also there are two temple sites, which are built on alternately once in every twenty years. The raison d'etre of this holy place is a tradition to the effect that the Sun-Goddess rested here for some time on the way to Yamada (Uji), where she finally took up her permanent abode.
外界にはほとんど知られない野尻には瀧原宮という神社群があり、山田、すなわち伊勢神宮に劣らぬ神聖さをもつとして敬虔な巡礼者が多く訪れる。杉と檜の荘厳な森に立ち、山田と同様に二つの社地を20年ごとに交替して建てる。太陽女神が最終的な住まいの山田・宇治へ向かう途中、この地でしばらく休んだという伝承が聖地の由来である。
Hence Nojiri is called O-tabi-sho, that is, " the
そのため野尻は御旅所、すなわち尊い旅の休み所、または皇大神宮別宮と呼ばれる。
August Wayside Place," or Ko Daijingu no Bekku, " the Supreme Goddess's Separate Palace." From Nojiri ^the road is flat the whole way to Oka, where the railway to Yamada (for Ise) is joined.
野尻からは道が全て平坦で、伊勢へ行く山田鉄道に接続する岡まで続く。